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Jul 03, 2012 | 03:00 PM CDT
Large-scale Screenings of Botanical Ingredients: Challenges and Opportunities
By: Patricia da Luz Moreira, PhD, Natura Inova&cce…
Botanical ingredients are interesting for their unique and complementary chemical diversities yet they are criticized for these very traits, which make quality assurance, reproducibility and good phytochemical characterization—required for successful high throughput screening, difficult. This article discusses these challenges as well as the benefits of large-scale screenings of botanical extracts that are currently used or developed for cosmetic product development.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:51 PM CDT
A Synthetic Tissue-based In vitro Ocular Irritation Assay
By: Stewart J. Lebrun, Lebrun Labs, CA USA
The testing of personal care products for ocular irritancy ensures their safety, proper labeling and consumer satisfaction. In relation, there is a current demand for animal-alternative tests. Thus, described here is a method using synthetic tissue to test for mild, moderate and severe ocular irritation, including data validating this method as an effective means to screen products.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:46 PM CDT
From Elastin to Elastic Fibers, Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
By: Philippe Mondon and Ada Andre - Sederma, Franc…
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:39 PM CDT
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Foot Care
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Institute of Skin and Produ…
Many dermatological diseases such as athlete’s foot occur because the feet spend long spans of time in a warm, dark and humid environment. While there are several foot diseases related to diabetes, this column will focus on the development of foot care formulae designed for cosmetic treatments.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:23 PM CDT
A Dermatological View—Exploring Potential Differences in Percutaneous Penetration and Barrier Function Between Individuals of Different Ethnicity or Skin Color
By: Elodie Metral and Howard I. Maibach, MD, Unive…
The current understanding of percutaneous penetration and parameters that can influence it remains a sub judice area. Ethnicity or pigmentation, for instance, can be implied in percutaneous absorption for which several studies, described here, have been conducted to clarify their roles.
Jun 04, 2012 | 03:24 PM CDT
Narcissus Tazetta and Schizandra Chinensis to Regulate ‘Youth Gene Clusters’—An In vitro Analysis
By: R. Gopaul; D.G. Kern; H.E. Knaggs, PhD; and J.…
A blend of Narcissus tazetta bulb and Schizandra chinensis fruit extracts was developed for anti-aging benefits and tested for efficacy on a human skin equivalent. Results indicate it regulates the functions of youth gene clusters by increasing the activities found in younger skin and reducing the activities found in aging skin specific to structure, hydration, cellular proliferation and pigmentation.
Jun 04, 2012 | 03:16 PM CDT
Formulation and Evaluation of Self-tanners
By: S. Peter Foltis, L’Oréal USA, Clark, NJ, USA
Self-tanning preparations are becoming increasingly important for consumers desiring a tanned look without exposing themselves to undue harm. The present article reviews DHA and other self-tanning active ingredients and their mechanisms of action. Formulating hallenges such as stability and ingredient interactions are discussed, as well as the evaluation and regulation of self-tanning products.
Jun 04, 2012 | 03:11 PM CDT
Fragrancing Sun Care Products
By: Jill B. Costa, PhD, Bell Flavors and Fragrance…
Outdoor, indoor and self-tanning products have different usage profiles, thus fragrancing each product type has special considerations with respect to the overall fragrance structure and the types of characters that work best. The present article reviews fragrance structure and discusses specific considerations for each product type to assist formulators in designing successful sun care products.
Jun 04, 2012 | 02:56 PM CDT
A Dermatological View—In vitro Buffering Capacity of Human Skin Layers
By: Y. Zheng, MD, PhD, Third Affiliated Hospital o…
Previous studies demonstrate that skin buffering capacity can be measured in vitro by applying several concentrations of hydrogen chloride (HCl) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) on skin and evaluating the pH change pre- and post-dosing. Here, the authors employed this technique to evaluate the buffering capacity of skin layers including intact SC, denuded SC and dermis skin samples.
May 03, 2012 | 02:42 PM CDT
A Novel Method to Measure and Pre-select Functional Filler Pigments
By: Miriam Becker, Christoph Schmidt, PhD, Veroni…
Functional filler pigments play an important role in adjusting optical properties such as transparency and soft focus effects in cosmetics. However, their suitability for specific formulas is not apparent until time-consuming tests using many different fillers have been conducted. Therefore, a new method to predetermine the soft focus effects of functional filler pigments is described here.