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Inducing Hormesis for a Lipofilling-like Action

The present article discusses a new approach to mimic lipofilling—the activation of hormesis, which is accomplished by the described encapsulated active designed to induce a transitory stress and initiate an overcompensation to reestablish homeostasis. This leads to the compensation of age-induced lipoatrophy and correction of wrinkles and folds, for a younger-looking appearance.

Clinical Evaluation of a Zinc- and Copper-based Eye Area Anti-aging Complex

A zinc and copper complex generating biomimetic electricity on a physiological level is shown here to improve the signs of photoaging in preclinical and clinical studies. This complex was applied to the eye area to confirm its efficacy as an anti-aging treatment option with good skin tolerance.

A Dermatological View—Percutaneous Penetration of Amino Acids

Skin care products containing amino acids often promote the benefits conferred on the skin by these molecules. Natural amino acids found in the skin have been found to improve the health of skin through antioxidation, membrane stabilization and increasing skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

Improved UV Testing to Prevent Product Degradation

Atlas Material Testing Technology has launched the fourth generation of its SUNTEST CPS+ with improved features such as improved quality of light, an easier viewed larger display panel, eight user languages and two pre-programmed test methods.

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Non-animal Transdermal Diffusion Model Testing for Cosmetic Actives and Formulations

Experience the unmatched predictability of Strat-M membrane—a synthetic, non-animal based model* for transdermal diffusion testing that is predictive of diffusion in human skin without lot-to-lot variability, safety and storage limitations.

Detecting Estrogenic Endocrine Disruptors in Personal Care Products and Supplements

Endocrine disruptor chemicals (EDCs) are a class of chemicals that has raised alarm for being linked to a wide variety of detrimental effects on human and wildlife populations, e.g., cancers, precocious puberty and obesity. Thus, there is a need to test personal care products and supplements for EDCs, which can be accomplished using the validated bioassay described here.

Stability Testing

Cosmetic companies support and conduct stability study programs because it is good business. Any improvement in stablity of a product is important for product performance, consumer satisfaction and economics.

Wise Words From the Bench with Gavin Greenoak

After 25 years in the industry, Gavin Greenoak, managing and scientific director of the Australian Photobiology Testing Facility Pty., Ltd. (APTF), continues to strive for a better understanding of the interaction of light and the human body. Greenoak’s career began in cancer research, which has afforded him unique insight of skin biology and the effects of sun exposure.

Permeation Method Developed As Alternative to Franz Cell

Pion Inc. has introduced a test method that predicts the permeability of drugs and dermal formulations through the human skin without the cost and low throughput restrictions of the Franz cell chamber.

Compass—Best Foot Forward

From an insider’s view, safety testing is an assumed step in the development of any product on the market. This puts the pressure on analytical and quality control efforts behind the scenes to ensure that ingredients and products meet or exceed expectations. In doing so, theoretically, no one else has to give it a second thought. For those who must give it considerable thought, this edition features two articles on testing, among other topics.

NICEATM Calls for Scientific Experts and Data on Eye Testing

The National Toxicology Program Interagency Center for the Evaluation of Alternative Toxicological Methods (NICEATM) is looking for scientific experts and data for a scientific review panel.

PCPC Requests Comments on Microorganism Guideline

The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) is requesting public comments on its revised guidelines on the identification of dangerous microorganisms in personal care raw materials and finished products.

Large-scale Screenings of Botanical Ingredients: Challenges and Opportunities

Botanical ingredients are interesting for their unique and complementary chemical diversities yet they are criticized for these very traits, which make quality assurance, reproducibility and good phytochemical characterization—required for successful high throughput screening, difficult. This article discusses these challenges as well as the benefits of large-scale screenings of botanical extracts that are currently used or developed for cosmetic product development.

Narcissus Tazetta and Schizandra Chinensis to Regulate ‘Youth Gene Clusters’—An In vitro Analysis

A blend of Narcissus tazetta bulb and Schizandra chinensis fruit extracts was developed for anti-aging benefits and tested for efficacy on a human skin equivalent. Results indicate it regulates the functions of youth gene clusters by increasing the activities found in younger skin and reducing the activities found in aging skin specific to structure, hydration, cellular proliferation and pigmentation.

Substantiating Skin Care Claims

Evalulab will discuss its clinical testing services specializing in the safety and efficacy of skin care products, to root product claims in science.

EPA, L'Oréal Collaborate to Build Animal-Alternative Test Methods

The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and global cosmetic manufacturer L’Oréal announced a research collaboration to develop animal-alternative toxicity tests to ensure product safety.

New method to Reproduce In vitro Cosmetic Product Photostability Findings

The present article describes a reproducible method for determining the photostability of sunscreen products. This method is based in part on the in vitro determination of the UVA protection factor as proposed by Colipa for the irradiation aspect, and on the spectroscopy of a sunscreen in dilute solution for the absorbance measurement aspect.

ICCVAM Recommends Non-animal Endocrine Disruptor Screening

The Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) has recommended a non-animal test method to identify estrogen agonist and antagonist activity. In addition to recommending the test, ICCVAM also found the method to provide a number of benefits over the method currently employed in the United States.