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Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Methods/Tools
Consumer Perception of Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Qualitative Assessment
There are varying definitions, associations and overall impressions of fine lines and wrinkles among different consumer segments. The findings of this study offer invaluable insight into consumers’ opinions, and by qualitative in-depth interviews, they provide a well-defined vernacular for aging descriptors. This language is critical for developmental research, consumer evaluation and marketing within the cosmetic industry.
Skin Care
Compass—Affinity to Water
While our path may appear to veer far from water, its status as the universal solvent will bring us back to the source.
Method/Process
A High Throughput Method to Predict Skin Penetration and Screen Topical Formulations
This work studies the applicability of a 96-well-based skin-mimetic artificial membrane permeability model to differentiate between topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Results are compared with data obtained from in vitro Franz cell permeability measurements and reveal the applicability of this method to assess cosmetic formulation permeation and speed the discovery process.
Method/Process
Influence of Skin Diffuse Reflectance on Sun Damage and Ingredient Efficacy Measurements
Current in vitro methods to assess photostability and antioxidant activity do not account for the diffuse reflectance of skin. Described here is an in vitro test that addresses this variable, mimics end-use product conditions and models photodamage processes. The approach is employed to determine the efficacy of an antioxidant from the Camellia sinensis (tea) plant.
Sun Protection
Adjusting Substrate/Product Interfacial Properties to Improve In vivo/In vitro SPF Correlation
This work evaluates the impact of a plasma treatment on test substrates to modify their surface energy, to more closely correlate in vitro SPF measurements with in vivo measurements—without chemically altering the test products. The authors chose the level of plasma modification to use on a substrate based on in vivo values; they explain how to choose it regarding specific formulas in a further paper.
Method/Process
Consumer Perception of Fine Lines and Wrinkles Assessed by Qualitative Methods
There are varying definitions, associations and overall impressions of fine lines and wrinkles among different consumer segments. The findings of this study offer invaluable insight into consumers’ opinions, and by qualitative in-depth interviews, they provide a well-defined vernacular for aging descriptors. This language is critical for developmental research, consumer evaluation and marketing within the cosmetic industry.
Method/Process
Shiseido Develops Method Using Spectrometry to Display Skin Permeation
Shiseido has developed a method to assess the skin permeation of cosmetic ingredients using a novel spectrometry technology.
Methods/Tools
Peptide Microarray to Advance Product Development
Pepchipomics is a new project supported by the FP7 of the European Union aimed at synthesizing and reading high-density peptide microarrays, resulting in a new high-throughput platform that integrates peptide synthesis, detection and analysis at an unprecedented scale.
Method/Process
Determining Korean Consumers’ Degree of Exposure to Lipstick and Face Creams
This study describes methods used in a Korean study to calculate consumer exposure to lipstick and face creams. The average amount applied daily was estimated and compared with data collected by weighing containers before and after use. The data collected was 1.8 to 1.6 times greater than the estimate, so although the survey represented real use patterns, the actual data was more accurate.
Method/Process
'Land'scaping-Ho!
For the current picture, Cosmetics & Toiletries knows many of the headaches you endure; for example, regulations and scale-up. It would take volumes to address all the challenges these pose, but this issue covers two specific aspects of them.
Method/Process
‘How Did THAT Get in There?’ Identifying Particulate Contamination in Products and Packaging
Particulate contamination and discoloration may occur in products due to foreign materials introduced via raw materials or during the manufacturing process. Agglomeration or reactions between ingredients and packaging components also are possible sources. The identification of contaminants and their origin, described here, is therefore critical so that future incidents can be prevented and safety or regulatory concerns can be addressed.
Method/Process
Determining Korean Consumers’ Degree of Exposure to Lipstick and Face Creams
This study describes methods used in a Korean study to calculate consumer exposure to lipstick and face creams. The average amount applied daily was estimated and compared with data collected by weighing containers before and after use. The data collected was 1.8 to 1.6 times greater than the estimate, so although the survey represented real use patterns, the actual data was more accurate.
Event Coverage
Stem Cells, Wellness and Claims Substantiation Take Center Stage at IFSCC Congress
The 2012 IFSCC Congress opened with a frenzy; the "African Frenzy" dancers, that is, and enlightened attendees over three days with 65+ presentations and more than 150 posters.
Methods/Tools
Device for Measuring Nanoparticles and Proteins
Malvern Instuments has launched a device suitable for the characterization of proteins and nanoparticles where the highest sensitivity for size and zeta potential measurement is required.
Method/Process
Using In vivo and In vitro Testing for Evidence-based Development of Anti-aging Ingredients
The need for a conceptual approach to skin aging, the need to combine in vitro and in vivo findings and the new direction for cosmetic ingredient manufacturers are discussed here.
Method/Process
Designing Mild Personal Care Products: A Case Study
This article reviews the mechanisms underlying skin irritation and sensitization, and methods used in a case study to test cosmetic products for their potential to cause irritation. It also covers the main skin conditions that can influence susceptibility to irritation, as well as ingredients affecting the mildness of cosmetic products.
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