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Section: Research > Literature/Data
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Static vs. Dynamic Measurement of Surface Tension
Surface tension determines the properties of formulations. How does one measure surface tension? Since, realistically, there is more than one surface tension in a liquid, measurements can vary depending upon the method used. Here, industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses static and dynamic approaches to measuring surface tension.
Literature/Data
Baby Skin vs. Adult Skin Structure, Function and Composition
Research shows that baby skin is different than adult skin in terms of structure, biochemical composition and function, as the authors review here. The adaptation of these skin qualities continues during the first year of life and should be considered when designing baby skin care products.
Color Cosmetics
[with formulas] Comparatively Speaking: Traditional vs. Transfer-resistant Lipstick
This installment of the "Comparatively Speaking" column offers formulators a "Lipstick 101" primer, complete with step-by-step instructions, quality control considerations, and standard vs. transfer-resistant sample formulas.
Literature/Data
Baby Skin vs. Adult Skin Structure, Function and Composition
Research shows that baby skin is different than adult skin in terms of structure, biochemical composition and function, as the authors review here. The adaptation of these skin qualities continues during the first year of life and should be considered when designing baby skin care products.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Fermented and Natural Blend Comforts AD Skin
Topical cosmetics to relieve atopic dermatitis (AD) should soothe skin and suppress pathogenic bacteria, among other functions. A new patent application from Truezyme Co., Ltd., describes a fermented and natural blend with multiple benefits for AD.
Methods/Tools
AI-aided Pathways Effectively Synthesize Naturally Occurring Compounds
AI-aided technology continues to find utility in cosmetics R&D. A recent paper published in
Nature
provides an example, showing the efficacy of computational synthesis planning for naturally occurring compounds.
Hair Care
Comparatively Speaking: Traditional Fatty Acids vs. Silicone Surfactants
The ability of silicone surfactants to lower the surface tension of fatty surfactants in water will be helpful in making alterations to other properties, such as wetting, foam and rheology.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Patents, Exclusive Right and Public Development
There are now more than 10 million patents issued in the United States, and they are a crucial part of how we develop cosmetic and personal care products.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Linear vs. Branched vs. Unsaturated Alcohols and Acids
Tony O’Lenick asks Art Hein of Jarchem to explain the difference between linear, branched and unsaturated alcohols and acids. These properties can be used by the formulator to choose the correct ester for a given formulation.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Copolymer vs. Bis-Vinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Tony O'Lenick notes that the nomenclature for silicone elastomers and resins is complicated, and explains the difference between dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer and bis-vinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer.
Hair Care
Comparatively Speaking: Cocamide DEA vs. MEA vs. DIPA in Shampoos
Tony O’Lenick asks Bob Coots, PhD, of Colonial Chemical Inc., "What is the difference between cocamide DEA, MEA or DIPA when used in shampoos?"
Literature/Data
Technically Speaking: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor Complexation with Cyclodextrins and More
The following column discusses new technology in skin care, hair care, cleansing, color, sun and more.
Literature/Data
From UV Protection Combinations to Solid Dialkyl Ketones in Cosmetics
Combinations for UV protection: Lin et al. have published on UV protection by a combination of topical antioxidants, vitamin C and vitamin E.
Cosmetic Ingredients
[update] Comparatively Speaking: Solubility of PEG-8 Dimethicone vs. Deposition
The ability to regulate the structure of a silicone polymeric PEG/PPG surfactant to form a microemulsion presents a useful mechanism to maximize deposition. Learn how here.
Animal Alternatives
ECHA on Combining Animal Alternative Data to Assess Sensitization
The ECHA recently published guidance for REACH registrants on reliably combining different sources of animal alternative-derived test data to assess the skin sensitizing potential of chemicals.
Literature/Data
Shadowing Plants: Phytochemicals for Sustainable Sun Protection, A Commentary
Plants have evolved an array of metabolites to face photo-oxidative stress and irradiation. This article offers a commentary about how such phytoconstituents could support the development of effective, natural and sustainable sun protection.
Method/Process
Test Model Developed to Predict Skin Permeability of Compounds
A test model published in the
Journal of Chromatography A
uses retention on octadecyl, cholesterol-bonded and immobilized artificial membrane columns to accurately predict the skin permeability of compounds.
Literature/Data
The Microbiome Movement: Commensal Cosmetics Offer a Viable Future
Various factors shape an individual’s skin microbiome, which has key effects on skin appearance and health. These are described herein, as is the potential to develop products in consideration of the microbiome.
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