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Natural/Sustainable
Formulating More Natural Products: A Discussion
This article presents the viewpoint of a “granola” chemist who proposes that removing water from formulations also resolves other issues, such as the potential for contamination and excessive use of preservatives and emulsifiers. However, recognizing that several views presented here will certainly spark debate, some opposing reactions and counter-reactions are included as well, to promote discussion and constructive debate within the industry.
Preservation
Bench & Beyond: Preservative Boosters—Up Against the Wall
This column has shown that many preservatives and preservative boosters have their killing and boosting effects at the cell wall. It seems likely that at least some of the preservative boosters will never become listed preservatives because they’ve bumped against a different kind of wall — a regulatory one.
Natural/Sustainable
Natural Rosemary Extract Certified as Organic
Two of Vitiva's extracts have been certified organic by Ecocert, meetings the demand for organic products.
Preservation
Boosting Preservative Efficacy With Propanediol
This article investigates the ability of Zemea (INCI: Propanediol) to boost preservative efficacy in an aqueous personal care formulation. This 100% bio-based propanediol is a colorless, pure glycol alternative derived from a sustainable, renewable corn fermentation process. The testing was conducted using standardized microbiology guidelines, known as preservative efficacy testing or challenge tests.
Sensory
Do More with Less Using Multifunctional Additives
The use of multifunctional raw materials allows formulators to use less resources, an immediate cost saving. This can also economize warehouse space, saving time, energy and order processing, all while adding multiple benefits to finished cosmetic products.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Selective Microbial Growth/Inhibition, Gentle Disinfectants, Improved Resistance and More
Chosen for their relevance to, or potential application in, cosmetics and personal care products, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features new technologies for preservation and antimicrobial benefits.
Literature/Data
Ingredient Profile—Sorbic Acid/Potassium Sorbate
SorbH and KSorb have become increasingly popular options for cosmetic preservatives due to their worldwide status as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) food ingredients and their long and successful use history.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Gram-positive vs. Gram-negative Bacteria
Tony O’Lenick asks industry expert Kelly Dobos to explain the difference between Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria to understand the importance of selecting the proper preservative system for a cosmetic.
Preservation
Measuring Synergy
Because it is rare to find a single preservative that is broad spectrum enough to inhibit the different species of microbes, the synergistic use of multiple preservatives in cosmetics is useful.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Renewable Polyphenols, Eco-friendly Gellants, Nano Silver Particles and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to eco-friendly materials and processes.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Pawpaw Anti-irritant, Degradation Sensor, Fenugreek Saponins and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to preservation; ranging from the preservation of product stability, to antimicrobial technologies and a natural preparation to address preservative-induced irritation.
Literature/Data
Propylparaben and Triclosan Found to Increase Allergy Risk in Children
A study conducted by Johns Hopkins Children's Center and funded by the National Institutes of Health supports the common "hygiene hypothesis" that some antibacterial chemicals and preservatives in hygiene products may make children more susceptible to food and environmental allergens.
Hair Care
Calling All Chemists, Formulators and Researchers
Are you sitting on a research “gold mine”? Get your work published!
Cosmetics & Toiletries
magazine is interested in your research as it pertains to cosmetics and personal care R&D.
Skin Care
Build the Basics, Optimize Products, Formulate Naturals and Penetrate Skin
In addition to courses for the beginning chemist, natural products and optimization of formulas,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
has added
Physiology of the Skin
, featuring Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, to its online training program. Buy at Suppliers' Day and save! Visit booth 1345.
Preservation
Broad-spectrum Alternative to Caprylyl Glycol Preservative Blends
Symrise has added a broad-spectrum preservative to its cosmetic ingredients offering that is said to serve as an alternative to caprylyl glycol blends.
Preservation
Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCl for Natural Preservation
Ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl (LAE), derived from natural lauric acid and L-arginine, is shown here to provide broad-spectrum activity against microorganisms including
Malassezia furfur
and
Propionibacterium acnes
. In vitro tests corroborated by in vivo evaluations suggest its efficacy in anti-dandruff and dermo-purifying applications.
Skin Care
Patent Picks—Natural Preservatives, Beta-Lactam for Hair Growth, Allyl Caproate for Sensory and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to actives for skin and hair care as well as inventions to improve formulation stability, preservation and sensory attributes.
Method/Process
Preservative Efficacy Testing of Aqueous Cosmetics and Drugs without Counting Colonies
A miniaturized system using broth enrichment followed by either streaking on agar or fluorescence treatments can eliminate colony counting in the linear regression method of preservative efficacy testing.
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