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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Cleansing

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .

In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.

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Harness the power of clean and green in your bottle

Evonik has developed two glycolipid-based platforms of biosurfactants known as sophorolipids and rhamnolipids which are used to address the specific requirements of a range of personal care and household cleaning applications.

Stabilized Solutions of Zinc Coceth Sulfate for Skin Cleansing and Skin Care

Tests described here show that chelating agents can stabilize solutions of zinc coceth sulfate, enabling this multifunctional active to provide mild skin cleansing, antidandruff, deodorant and skin renewal benefits. The role of zinc species deposition onto skin has also been investigated.

Structured Surfactant Systems for Improved Lasting Deposition of Perfume on Skin and Hair

To maximize perfume delivery from structured cleansing formulations, the fragrance must be introduced before structuring the formulation into multilamellar vesicles. Structured formulations fragranced in such a way are shown here to improve perfume deposition and duration versus micellar systems, with no negative impact on perfume burst during use.

Personal care formulations featuring AmphiStar's AmphiCare

AmphiStar's AmphiCare Upcycled Bio-based Surfactant Offers Safe, Gentle Alternative for Hair Care and Skin Care

The company's platform leverages Starmerella bombicola yeast "originally isolated from bumblebee honey," per AmphiStar, to produce glycolipid biosurfactants.

Effect of Branching on Surfactant Properties of Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinates, most commonly either ethoxylated or amido products, have been around for a long time and are used to provide foam, detergency and wetting in formulations. In this article, their wetting and foam attributes are evaluated, examining the effect of branching on these key surfactant properties.

Surfactants and Interfacial Phenomena in Cosmetics and Detergency

An understanding of the behavior of surfactants and their interfacial phenomena in cosmetics processes will help formulators design better cosmetics.

Patent Picks—Hair and Eyelash Growth, Fixatives, Surfactants and More

Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine editor, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features recently issued patents relevant to hair care, styling and growth.

Properties of Surfactants: Wetting

In formulation, the key attributes of surfactants are conditioning, wetting, emulsification, and detergency. This article describes the features of surfactants that provide wetting properties in aqueous systems. Specifically, the properties of interest include surface tension reduction, HLB, molecular weight, branching, and level of ethoxylation. The choice of the best wetting agent depends upon chemical structure and the formulation.

Industry leaders share their opinions on various methods of acne care development.

Expert Opinions: Compromised Skin Care—Imperfections, Resilience, Natural and Vegan, Skin Defense, Biology and More

Considering the dynamics of today’s market for compromised skin care, we asked industry experts to weigh in on current and future drivers and trends. Following are their insights.

Properties of Surfactants: Detergency

Determining the soils to remove during the cleansing of hair is critical to the understanding of detergency. Here, the author describes how formulators can choose a detergent based on its efficiency specific to the types of oils found commonly on hair.

Properties of Surfactants: Conditioning

This study of the compatibility, foam properties, and substantivity of quats with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth-3-sulfate (SLES) helps to explain the function of conditioners.

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The next level of natural cosmetics

Gattefossé decided to push the limits of its patented wax butter technology to develop the most advanced emulsifier of its natural range, Emulium® Dolcea MB.

Surfactants and Cleansing Products

Today, cleansing products are available in solid bar, liquid and gel forms and can be based on alkaline salts and synthetic and natural surfactants. When substituted for alkaline salts, synthetic and natural surfactants improve the foam structure and mildness of formulas.

Partnership for the Production of Fatty Alcohols

Cognis Ltd. and Thai Oleochemicals Company Ltd. have entered a 50/50 joint venture...

A Brief Review of Polymer/Surfactant Interaction

In this article, the significance of parameters such as correlation length (blob size), micelle structure, comicellization, polymer adsorption conformation and coacervate structure are introduced with relevance to the conceptual appreciation of polymer-surfactant interactions and its bearing on recent advances in conditioning shampoos.

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[training] The next level of natural cosmetics

Gattefossé decided to push the limits of its patented wax butter technology to develop the most advanced emulsifier of its natural range, Emulium® Dolcea MB.

Natural Surfactants and Emulsifiers

Jarchem will present its natural surfactants and emulsifiers during the NY SCC Suppliers' Day.

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