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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Cleansing

Properties of Surfactants: Emulsions

The metastable nature of two insoluble materials is critical to understanding the nature and performance of emulsions. This metastability and the requirement that the emulsion be cosmetically appealing offer unique challenges to the formulator.

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Comparatively Speaking: O/W, W/O, Micro, Pickering and Suspo Emulsions

In this installment of his "Comparatively Speaking" series, industry expert Tony O'Lenick compares emulsion types for the benefit of novice formulators.

In reality, fragrance often is the most chemically complicated component of the formulation, and understanding its technical aspects is essential for the creation of an acceptable product.

Fragrance in Emulsion Systems and Surfactant Systems

Fragrance is a complex system of aroma chemicals whose potential to interact with the base in formulated products is reviewed in this article, with a focus on fragrance in emulsion systems and surfactant systems.

Hydrophobically Modified Inulin: A Novel Polymeric Surfactant and Emulsion Stabilizer

After a short introduction illustrating the basic principles for steric stabilization by polymeric surfactants, the authors describe a novel polymeric surfactant that consists of hydrophobically modified inulin and demonstrate that it is an effective stabilizer for O/W emulsions, suspensions, nano-emulsions and multiple emulsions.

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Pop the Cork: Quercus suber for Naturally Sourced Antioxidants and Emulsion Stability

Consumers demand better and more sustainable alternatives. Further, some bioactive ingredients register greater biocompatibility. This has driven the industry to search for plant-derived compounds with biological activity. Quercus suber L., or cork oak, is shown here to provide an interesting option.

A Surfactant/Biopolymer Stabilizer for Emulsions

An emulsifier/biopolymer system using a mixture of nonionic surfactants and two biopolymers was developed. The surfactants provide effective steric stabilization against coalescence, whereas the biopolymers provide a high residual viscosity and yield value, thus providing stability against creaming. The mechanism of stabilization is discussed in terms of the synergy between the two biopolymers.

Enabling Advanced Emulsions in Microchannel Architecture

An innovative emulsification technology is demonstrated, which can be applied to surfactant-free emulsions and has the propensity for stimuli-responsive behavior. The technology can be used to allow previously difficult product formulations with shear-sensitive materials and controlled, droplet size distribution.

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Uniquely Stable Emulsions Revealed Through Freeze-fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy

Researchers investigated the structures and features of emulsions made with different emulsifiers via freeze-fracture transmission electron microscopy. Potassium cetyl phosphate formed more multi-lamellar spheres than other emulsifiers, and aggregated homo-domains on top of lamellar sheet surfaces and multi-lamellar spheres. These homo-domains are likely to be responsible for the excellent emulsion stability achieved.

Clean and Green: A Review of Modern Day Surfactants and Emulsifiers

Many certified organic shampoos and body washes use soaps such as potassium cocoate as their primary cleansing agent, partially due to a lack of suitable, organically approved foaming alternatives. This article reviews the use of modern surfactants and emulsifiers developed based on a green and eco-conscious philosophy.

Clean and Green: A Review of Modern Day Surfactants and Emulsifiers

Many certified organic shampoos and body washes use soaps such as potassium cocoate as their primary cleansing agent, partially due to a lack of suitable, organically approved foaming alternatives. This article reviews the use of modern surfactants and emulsifiers developed based on a green and eco-conscious philosophy.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .

In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.

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Harness the power of clean and green in your bottle

Evonik has developed two glycolipid-based platforms of biosurfactants known as sophorolipids and rhamnolipids which are used to address the specific requirements of a range of personal care and household cleaning applications.

Stabilized Solutions of Zinc Coceth Sulfate for Skin Cleansing and Skin Care

Tests described here show that chelating agents can stabilize solutions of zinc coceth sulfate, enabling this multifunctional active to provide mild skin cleansing, antidandruff, deodorant and skin renewal benefits. The role of zinc species deposition onto skin has also been investigated.

Structured Surfactant Systems for Improved Lasting Deposition of Perfume on Skin and Hair

To maximize perfume delivery from structured cleansing formulations, the fragrance must be introduced before structuring the formulation into multilamellar vesicles. Structured formulations fragranced in such a way are shown here to improve perfume deposition and duration versus micellar systems, with no negative impact on perfume burst during use.

Effect of Branching on Surfactant Properties of Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinates, most commonly either ethoxylated or amido products, have been around for a long time and are used to provide foam, detergency and wetting in formulations. In this article, their wetting and foam attributes are evaluated, examining the effect of branching on these key surfactant properties.

Surfactants and Interfacial Phenomena in Cosmetics and Detergency

An understanding of the behavior of surfactants and their interfacial phenomena in cosmetics processes will help formulators design better cosmetics.

Patent Picks—Hair and Eyelash Growth, Fixatives, Surfactants and More

Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine editor, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features recently issued patents relevant to hair care, styling and growth.

Properties of Surfactants: Wetting

In formulation, the key attributes of surfactants are conditioning, wetting, emulsification, and detergency. This article describes the features of surfactants that provide wetting properties in aqueous systems. Specifically, the properties of interest include surface tension reduction, HLB, molecular weight, branching, and level of ethoxylation. The choice of the best wetting agent depends upon chemical structure and the formulation.

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