[training] The next level of natural cosmetics


The next level of natural cosmetics

We all know that naturality is no longer just a trend, it is a prerequisite for any new cosmetic product launch. Indeed, it is one of the main consumer expectations, not only in Europe but throughout the world. However, formulating a natural cosmetic product takes more time, whereas development times decrease year after year.

At Gattefossé, we decided to push the limits of our patented wax butter technology to develop the most advanced emulsifier of our natural range, Emulium® Dolcea MB.

The Most Robust of Our Natural Emulsifiers

Emulium® Dolcea MB is a PEG-free O/W emulsifier of 100% natural origin, easy to formulate and flexible, which enables formulating from fluid textures to thick butters. Its composition has been finely tuned to provide the best performance/stability/sensory combination.

As a result, Emulium® Dolcea MB is capable of emulsifying and stabilizing emulsions with a high amount of oil phase (up to 40%). In the form of pellets, it is very easy to formulate, does not require high shear and creates very fine emulsions. Flexible, it can be incorporated in the oil phase or water phase if necessary and can be used in a concentrated emulsion process to save energy and time.


An Extreme Softness

Sensory analysis, carried out on over ten formulations of highly varied composition in the oil phase and polysaccharide nature, has shown that the sensory personality of Emulium® Dolcea MB is characterized by an extreme softness in particular on skin after-feel. This softness can be attributed to the mixed esters of jojoba and sunflower, which combine spreadability and body.

Figure 1: Sensory profile of formulas containing Emulium® Dolcea MB

48 Hr Moisturization

A natural and simple emulsion containing 4% of Emulium® Dolcea MB was tested on women with dry skin. Skin moisture measurements were performed before the first application, after 28 days, 24h and 48h after the last application to assess skin moisture remanence.

Results showed that the cream containing Emulium® Dolcea MB significantly improves the skin moisture level compared to the untreated area, up to 48h after the last application.

Figure 2: Results of the corneometry test with a cream containing Emulium® Mellifera MB

Readily Biodegradable Formulas

The composition of Emulium® Dolcea MB has been carefully chosen to ensure excellent biodegradability. The biodegradability of a leave-on skin care cream containing 4% of Emulium® Dolcea MB has been tested. Results showed that 97% of the cream, in equivalent organic carbon, has been biodegraded after only 28 days.

Figure 3: Results of the biodegradability of the cream containing Emulium® Dolcea MB

Learn more about Emulium® Dolcea MB, Bronze Innovation Award in the Functional Ingredients category at in-cosmetics Global Awards 2020.


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