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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Cleansing

Comparatively Speaking--Analytical Methods: The mg KOH/gm System

This is the first of several columns that will examine key analytical methods used in quality control to discuss their application to raw materials. The mg KOH/gm system is the most commonly used system to analyze surfactants and it originally was developed by chemists in the soap business.

Comparatively Speaking: Static vs. Dynamic Measurement of Surface Tension

Surface tension determines the properties of formulations. How does one measure surface tension? Since, realistically, there is more than one surface tension in a liquid, measurements can vary depending upon the method used. Here, industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses static and dynamic approaches to measuring surface tension.

Water surface

Comparatively Speaking: Surface Tension in Water vs. in Formulation

Many published studies of surfactants use pure surfactant in distilled water. However, a formulation is almost never a single surfactant in water. Here, industry expert Tony O'Lenick compares the surface tension of a surfactant added in water with that in a formulation.

Comparatively Speaking: Aqueous Surfactant vs. Silicone Surfactant

Industry expert Anthony O'Lenick Jr. explains the difference between molecules that act like surfactants for aqueous systems versus oil systems.

Comparatively Speaking: Solubility in Surfactants vs. Compounds

Anthony J. O'Lenick provides a brief overview of solubility as the key to surfactant activity and compares it with compounds such as sodium chloride, for the benefit of novice formulators.

Amine Oxides: A Most Versatile and Underutilized Material

Amine oxides are a versatile and underutilized material. Amine oxides ahve been well-known to surfactant chemists for decades.

Surfactants and Cleansing Products

Today, cleansing products are available in solid bar, liquid and gel forms and can be based on alkaline salts and synthetic and natural surfactants. When substituted for alkaline salts, synthetic and natural surfactants improve the foam structure and mildness of formulas.

New Cellulose Derivatives in Personal Care Formulations

Hydrophobic modified cellulose ethers can be used to thicken formulations containing high concentrations of anionic surfactants by adding nonionic surfactants to the system. Implications are shown for liquid soaps and hair shampoos.

Surfactant-Free Formulating

The author describes how familiar hydrophobic materials can be formed into stable aqueous dispersions via an extraordinary high pressure, high shear process utilizing blends of alkylated phophatidyl choline.

Surface-Active Phospholipids for Personal Care

Natural phospholipids have many cellular functions such as being constituents of cell membranes. Certain types of products based upon phospholipid chemistry offer desirable surfactant properties including foaming, detergency, while others offer outstanding conditioning. The two classes offer the formulator a variety of new options when making cosmetic products.

New Shampoo Technologies: Between the Shock Waves

Though shampoo technology is not presently experiencing sudden and dramatic change, the author reviews several recent advances in materials, test methodology (combinatorial chemistry), and formulation approaches (structured surfactant technologies).

Pseudo Nonionic Surfactant Complexes In Soap Bars

Pseudo-Nonionic Surfactant Complexes in Soap Bars

Pseudo-nonionic surfactant complexes formed between anionic and cationic surfactants improved physical and sensorial attributes of soap formulations. Two complexes are described; one more stable and the other having the lowest irritation potential.

Comparatively Speaking: Amphilic vs. Non-amphilic Compounds

The term amphilic refers to a compound that possesses at least two groups that, if present in pure form, are insoluble in one another. The groups that are most commonly encountered are oil and water.

A Novel Presentation of Nonionic PEG Surfactants’ Characteristics

The authors develop data on 10 attributes of 16 naturally derived PEGs and suggest a presentation technique by which the formulator may view two measured attributes simultaneously.

Hydrophobically Modified Inulin: A Novel Polymeric Surfactant and Emulsion Stabilizer

After a short introduction illustrating the basic principles for steric stabilization by polymeric surfactants, the authors describe a novel polymeric surfactant that consists of hydrophobically modified inulin and demonstrate that it is an effective stabilizer for O/W emulsions, suspensions, nano-emulsions and multiple emulsions.

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Evaluating Shampoo Foam

There is probably no personal care category that is more competitive than shampoos. With this in mind, formulators of shampoos are asked by marketing to develop products to both appeal to consumers and perform (whatever “perform” means).

A Hydrophobically Modified Inulin Surfactant for Preparing and Stabilizing Nanoemulsions

Nanoemulsions prepared and stabilized with hydrophobically modified inulin as the surfactant require much less surfactant than nanoemulsions prepared and stabilized using conventional surfactants such as alcohol ethoxylate because they have a reduced Ostwald ripening rate.

Properties of Surfactants: Conditioning

This study of the compatibility, foam properties, and substantivity of quats with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth-3-sulfate (SLES) helps to explain the function of conditioners.

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