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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Cleansing

Stabilized Solutions of Zinc Coceth Sulfate for Skin Cleansing and Skin Care

Tests described here show that chelating agents can stabilize solutions of zinc coceth sulfate, enabling this multifunctional active to provide mild skin cleansing, antidandruff, deodorant and skin renewal benefits. The role of zinc species deposition onto skin has also been investigated.

Properties of Surfactants: Wetting

In formulation, the key attributes of surfactants are conditioning, wetting, emulsification, and detergency. This article describes the features of surfactants that provide wetting properties in aqueous systems. Specifically, the properties of interest include surface tension reduction, HLB, molecular weight, branching, and level of ethoxylation. The choice of the best wetting agent depends upon chemical structure and the formulation.

Sugar and the Quest for Sulfate-Free Formulations

Many approaches have been tried over the years to eliminate lauryl sulfates and lauryl ether sulfates from personal care formulations, most of which have not been cost-effective. This article discusses a new class of patented anionic products based upon sugar raw materials.

A Surfactant/Biopolymer Stabilizer for Emulsions

An emulsifier/biopolymer system using a mixture of nonionic surfactants and two biopolymers was developed. The surfactants provide effective steric stabilization against coalescence, whereas the biopolymers provide a high residual viscosity and yield value, thus providing stability against creaming. The mechanism of stabilization is discussed in terms of the synergy between the two biopolymers.

Enabling Advanced Emulsions in Microchannel Architecture

An innovative emulsification technology is demonstrated, which can be applied to surfactant-free emulsions and has the propensity for stimuli-responsive behavior. The technology can be used to allow previously difficult product formulations with shear-sensitive materials and controlled, droplet size distribution.

Properties of Surfactants: Detergency

Determining the soils to remove during the cleansing of hair is critical to the understanding of detergency. Here, the author describes how formulators can choose a detergent based on its efficiency specific to the types of oils found commonly on hair.

Anionic/Cationic Complexes

Understanding the interactions of surfactants is important to optimizing their properties in formulations. The author describes how the anionic/cationic interaction is critical to properties such as foam, viscosity, conditioning properties and minimal irritation.

Properties of Surfactants: Emulsions

The metastable nature of two insoluble materials is critical to understanding the nature and performance of emulsions. This metastability and the requirement that the emulsion be cosmetically appealing offer unique challenges to the formulator.

Making Up the Psyche

This issue highlights Mendrok-Edinger et al.’s quest to find the best butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane stabilizer for sun care; Farwick et al.’s update of ceramide identification, synthesis, function and nomenclature; and finally, Arif’s discussion supporting the smart use of sulfates in formulations. There’s a little something to stimulate everyone’s psyche in this issue.

Sulfate vs. Sulfate-free: Information to Make a Choice

In the present article, the author considers factors for sulfate vs. sulfate-free formulating, including cost, foam and viscosity. In addition, two test formulations with and without sulfates are compared. The author concludes that little sound science exists to support the current “sulfate-free” market trend, especially when considering the potential benefits sulfates can impart in formulations.

Deposition from Conditioning Shampoo: Optimizing Coacervate Formation

New techniques are being offered to produce formulations faster and more cost effectively than ever before. Researchers at the Institute for Formulation Science have addressed this challenge by developing robotic combinatorial techniques for the preparation and investigation of complex mixtures.

Selecting Silicone Surfactants for Personal Care Formulations

Interactions between a silicone surfactant and a fatty surfactant can alter the properties of a formulation. Here, the authors provide a case study of dimethicone copolyols in a shampoo.

Until an Organic Surfactant Exists

Today’s society is becoming more eco-conscious and as such, consumers want to see natural and organic products now—for a reasonable price and labeled clearly. While it is difficult to create a natural and organic skin care product, it is even more so to formulate an organic or natural hair care product.

Mildness Meets Greenness

Alkyl polyglucoside surfactants are obtained from renewable, plant-derived raw materials. Compatibility test results and exemplary formulations presented here show that alkyl polyglucosides enable cosmetic chemists to formulate mild body cleansing formulations that fulfill the new “green” formulation trend and enable the formulation of alkyl sulfate-free and ethoxylate-free cleansing concepts.

Effect of Branching on Surfactant Properties of Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinates, most commonly either ethoxylated or amido products, have been around for a long time and are used to provide foam, detergency and wetting in formulations. In this article, their wetting and foam attributes are evaluated, examining the effect of branching on these key surfactant properties.

Mixed Fatty/Silicone Surfactant Systems

This article investigates some of the interactions between silicone surfactants and fatty surfactants. Mixtures of these two very different classes of materials can be used by the formulator to alter the aesthetics, maximize effects and minimize costs in personal care formulations.

Compass: When Worlds Colide

This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine looks at the inner and outer worlds of beauty and even delves into the future with a look at what the newest ingredients formulators will use to build formulas of tomorrow.

Bench & Beyond: Branching for Mildness with Sulfosuccinates

This column surveys a few US patents that explore the effects of branching in the sulfosuccinate molecule and the extent of sulfosuccinate branching into new personal care applications.

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