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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Moisturizing
Properties of Vegetal Oil-based Creams in Skin Care
Tocopherols and tocotrienols are the major constituents of almond oil, safflower oil and palm oil. They are necessary for the normal growth and metabolism of healthy skin. These oils were formulated in nourishing skin care products and massage creams as part of stable o/w emulsions and were found to have excellent storage stability, flow properties, spreadability and moisturizing properties.
Literature/Data
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part I, Characterization
Avobenzone is a widely used UV-absorbing organic filter. Its dynamic nature and photophysical and photochemical properties are responsible for its widespread use. This first in a two-part series reviews its inherent characteristics and behavior in solvents; part two will consider its behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
Actives
Vivify's Acquisition of Access Ingredients Boosts Beauty Ingredient Portfolio
Vivify plans to maintain the Access Ingredients and Sandream Specialties brands in the marketplace.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Bio-Botanica offers Pueraria Mirifica in Puresterol (sample request)
Puresterol helps support the management of menopause and perimenopausal symptoms and can be used topically for anti-aging and anti-wrinkle products. (US Patent #7,658,955)
Actives
Granactive Retinoid: The Power of Retinol without the Irritation
Retinol (vitamin A) is the most popular topical retinoid used to date, but its skin irritancy and instability to sunlight has limited its scope and appeal.Retinol esters are often used to lower the irritation potential and increase stability, but a tradeoff is decreased retinoid activity and benefits. Granactive Retinoid is a next-generation anti-aging product, delivering the performance of retinol and retinoid derivatives with significantly lower irritation potential, thus supporting clear, visibly more youthful looking skin with better consumer acceptance.
Literature/Data
Beauty Beyond Wrinkles: Uncovering 16 Biological Hallmarks of Aging
In this interview, renowned skin science expert, UCLA cosmetic science educator and director of PD at YG Labs, Rebecca Gadberry, shares her insights on the hallmarks of aging. This evolving framework is reshaping how the industry is approaches aging.
Actives
Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of
Saccharina longicruris
Extract
Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of
Saccharina longicruris
has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Clinical Relevance of Topical Active Delivery Systems in Cosmetics
Depending on a drug or cosmetic ingredient’s intended target, topical delivery systems are broadly categorized as either transdermal drug or dermal drug/cosmetic. Transdermal drug delivery (TDD) is the controlled release of drugs through intact skin to obtain therapeutic levels systematically and to affect specified targets for specific purposes such as contraception, among others.
Actives
Applicability of t-Flavanone to Treat Female Pattern Baldness
t-Flavanone, trans-3, 4′-dimethyl-3-hydroxyflavanone, promotes the growth of hair follicles and increases hair diameter. It has been established for the treatment of male pattern baldness. This study examines its application to treat female pattern baldness.
Actives
Low Molecular Weight Tannins of Phyllanthus emblica: Antiaging Effects
The three major causes of premature photoaging of skin can be reduced by using low molecular weight tannins of Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract. Product description, standardization, stability and formulation guidelines are discussed.
Literature/Data
Sub-group of Fibroblasts Identified as Primary Wound Healers
Research published in the
Journal of Investigative Dermatology
reveals a sub-class of fibroblasts that act as the main collagen producers during wound healing.
Actives
Photoprotection of TiO2 Using Propenoic Acid Esters
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is known to be photocatalytically active. Even with surface modifications, it catalyzes the decomposition of organic materials and promotes the formation of reactive oxygen species. However, a particular propenoic acid ester is shown here to protect TiO2 from inducing such reactions, making it a more effective and safer UV filter.
Actives
Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of
Saccharina longicruris
Extract
Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of
Saccharina longicruris
has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Benefits of
Borneo Camphor
-derived Hydrotropes for 'Natural' Formulations
Alpha-pinene, typically derived from pine trees, is also a by-product of the paper manufacturing process. The material is a source of low-toxic and naturally based isobornyl ethers, from which a new hydrotrope, dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether, was developed.The present study examines the unique dispersion and solubility properties of this material, among other benefits, and its application in cosmetics.
Actives
Out of the Woods: Bark Appears in Personal Care
While the use of wood for scent is well-established, beauty manufacturers are now highlighting the active benefits of tree-related ingredients--a development originating from traditional Chinese medicine.
Literature/Data
Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory Effects of CBD Confirmed in Keratinocytes
A study published in the
Journal of Natural Products
confirms the mechanism through which cannabidiol (CBD) exerts antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions in human skin keratinocytes.
Regional
Comparatively Speaking: US FDA Categories of Hand Sanitizer Actives
Anthony J. O’Lenick, Jr. turns to David R. Macinga, PhD, and James W. Arbogast, PhD, to explain the differences between the US FDA categories used to classify hand sanitizer actives.
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