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Section: Research
News
How COVID-19 Impacted the French Cosmetics Sector
“The health crisis has led to very contrasting developments within the cosmetics sector: a surge in demand for hygiene products and a fall in the beauty market. The cosmetics sector has rebounded quickly from past crises and should return to its pre-crisis level in 2022," said Nicolas Bouzou, economist and director of the Asterès cabinet.
Skin Care
Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market
While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.
Literature/Data
Aveeno Debuts 'The State of Skin Sensitivity' Report
Aveeno conducted research on the causes of skin sensitivity and analyzed data on individual reports of having sensitive skin.
Consumers/Market
Sustainability: The Driving Force Behind Beauty Consumer Purchases*
Fifty-one percent of consumers globally say their beauty and grooming product choices are influenced by the brand’s level of social responsibility. What has changed in recent years is that large multinationals and conventional brands are now investing in sustainability.
Literature/Data
Prometheus’ Fire: The Rise of Biotech in Beauty
This article describes the complexities of skin aging, including the role of sirtuins and effects of niacinamide. It also explores how next-gen biotech, such as plant stem cells, archaeosomes and bacteriophages, are the path forward to democratize beauty.
Magazine
The Beauty Ingredient Agenda: Longevity x Anti-aging
The recently decoded 12 hallmarks of aging provide exciting new anti-aging targets for R&D and new claims for marketing.
Consumers/Market
These Are China's 2 Big Beauty Growth Drivers
While the headlines have been negative for giants such as Estee Lauder, Coty and Sephora, two growth channels offer hope for brands seeking success.
Natural/Sustainable
Inside The Estée Lauder Companies' Ingredient Innovation Race
The MIT work has focused on the "development of biodegradable materials for cosmetic applications and [the exploration of] new solutions to combat the effects of visible light from the sun."
Testing
Chocolate and Wine: The Perfect Match for Skin?
The
International Journal of Molecular Sciences
had us at "hello" this month, with a new study comparing the phenolic compounds in chocolate (actually, cocoa by-products) vs. wine (okay, grape seed) extracts for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory skin benefits.
Literature/Data
How Proteins Interact at the O/W Emulsion Interface
Research published in
Food Chemistry
reviewed the effects of proteins added to emulsion systems and evaluation methods thereof.
Methods/Tools
[video] What the Moving Face Reveals about Age
POLA researcher Motonori Kurosumi explored how we perceive the age of others in moving vs. static faces. He touches on his findings in this video interview.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Solving the Efficacy vs. Irritation Equation
Consumers want it all; products that will clean the "s" right off of "skin" but reinforce its barrier, leaving skin hydrated and undisturbed. Is that even possible? The inventors on this Gojo Industries patent believe so.
Literature/Data
Benzophenone-3 Found to Persist in the Body
A doctoral thesis from Göteborg University, Sweden, suggests that benzophenone-3 is stored in the body.
Consumers/Market
BB Creams Surge in Popularity in the U.S.
A report from The NPD Group shows the significant growth of the multifunctional beauty products in the U.S. market in recent months.
Methods/Tools
Comparatively Speaking--Analytical Methods: The mg KOH/gm System
This is the first of several columns that will examine key analytical methods used in quality control to discuss their application to raw materials. The mg KOH/gm system is the most commonly used system to analyze surfactants and it originally was developed by chemists in the soap business.
Literature/Data
Bench & Beyond: The Global Look of Cosmetic Patents
This column highlights various cosmetic patents throughout the years. It should serve as a guide for future innovation.
Literature/Data
Getting Inside the Human Nail Plate: First Success
Onychomycosis is a fungal infection of the nail plate – the most visible part of the nail apparatus (see sidebar). This infection is usually caused by species of Epidermophyton,Microsporum and Trichophyton resulting in nails that are opaque, white, thickened, friable and brittle.
Tech Transfer
Prescription Polymer Nail Treatment Approved by the FDA
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved a prescription polymer treatment for brittle nail symdrome (nail dystrophy).
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