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Section: Formulas/Products

Compass—Ties That Bind

Binding is not a new phenomenon, but interest in it continues for improved ingredient delivery and efficacy.

Comparatively Speaking: Amphoteric vs. Ampholyte

Here, O'Lenick explains the terms amphoteric, which is used to describe compounds having two or more different groups with various charges, and ampholytes, which have a fully quaternized nitrogen and consequently cannot lose their positive charge.

Compass—Best Foot Forward

From an insider’s view, safety testing is an assumed step in the development of any product on the market. This puts the pressure on analytical and quality control efforts behind the scenes to ensure that ingredients and products meet or exceed expectations. In doing so, theoretically, no one else has to give it a second thought. For those who must give it considerable thought, this edition features two articles on testing, among other topics.

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Shampoo Component Word Search

Industry expert Ken Klein tests your shampoo formulating knowledge with this brain teaser.

Compass: When Worlds Colide

This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine looks at the inner and outer worlds of beauty and even delves into the future with a look at what the newest ingredients formulators will use to build formulas of tomorrow.

Compass--Skin’s New Role

Gaining a clear understanding of the path into and from the skin is necessary to engineer ingredients that will provide the desired effects. Formulators must know, for example, whether a water- or oil-soluble ingredient is more effective; or if the molecules in a formula are too large to penetrate, or so small that their safety must be considered.

Compass: Touching Us All

Enough cannot be said about the skin. It is something that we all have in common, and that literally touches us on an everyday basis.

Comparatively Speaking: Silicone Anionics and Cationics vs. Soft Complex for Hair Care

The presence of ionic groups affects silicone in an analogous way to how ionic groups affect fatty surfactants. Here, Tony O'Lenick explains how molecular modifications to silicones can result in ionic complexes that are soluble in water and compatible with each other.

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Solvay Expands Executive Committee

The chemical company has added three new members to its executive committee.

Compass—Feeling Out Consumers

Obviously, personal care is personal, which creates a challenge to not only design the desired physical effects but also to interpret those effects as subjectively as the users will. This becomes more complex since sensory experience relates to user skin type, as Steventon describes in this issue. To some extent, however, consumers experience similar effects, which is where ingredients such as silicones and nanoparticles can be employed.

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Cornelius Commits to Ethical Sourcing

Olvea, which the company distributes in the United Kingdom, is a member of the non-profit Union for Ethical Biotrade and operates the non-profit Marocavie; principal Ronald Britton has produced a range of biodegradable glitter.

Comparatively Speaking: Dye vs. Pigment

Tony O'Lenick collaborated with Nick Morante to develop a four-part series of the "Comparatively Speaking" column that focuses on color. This is the second in the series, where Morante helps explain the difference between a dye and a pigment.

Comparatively Speaking: Microbiome vs. Metagenome

In this "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick refers to Kelly Dobos to explain the difference between a microbiome and a metagenome, the understanding of which can lead to better understanding the anti-aging properties of ingredients and cosmetic products.

Comparatively Speaking: Dimethicone vs. Simethicone

According to Tony O'Lenick, dimethicones are a series of silicone polymers that contain only M and D units, whereas simethicone is a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and silica gel.

Comparatively Speaking: Cofactors vs. Coenzymes

Enzymes for DNA repair or Coenzyme Q10 for antioxidant and antiaging benefits have become typical ingredients in today's skin care. Here, industry expert O'Lenick illustrates the difference between cofactors and coenzymes.

Comparatively Speaking: Epilation vs. Depilation

Both epilation and depilation relate to the removal of unwanted hair. Whereas depilatories remove hair at the surface, epilation is the removal of the entire hair, from beneath the surface.

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Nail Companies Revamping Ingredient List

Three major nail polish manufacturers have announced this week that they will be removing some ingredients from their products.

Complementary Polysaccharides for Skin Care

Exossine includes the environmentally-friendly Exo-H and Exo-T that are said to complement each other.

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