Patent Picks—Ice-binding, Illumination, Anti-glycation, Color-change, Probiotics and More in Makeup

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions that relate to makeup and skin care, including compositions to increase skin radiance, improve product sensory properties, impart probiotic benefits, provide interactive and color-changing abilities, protect skin through ice binding and more.

Bismuth oxychloride for skin illumination
European Patent Application EP2826460
Publication date: Jan. 21, 2015
Assignee: L'Oréal

Disclosed in this patent are cosmetic compositions to impart brightness to or illuminate the skin. The skin naturally reflects portions of incident light and this invention increases this reflection, making dull skin appear brighter by imparting more sparkle and a healthy glow. The disclosed invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one dispersion of bismuth oxychloride (Cl 77163) in an oil selected from: (i) monoesters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, having preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms; and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing preferably from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; or (ii) a polar oil that has the solubility parameter at 25°C, dA, is greater than 6 (J/cm3) 1/2, and mixtures thereof. The invention also comprises: b) at least one blurring agent (soft focus); and c) at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils having a refractive index greater than 1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25°C, dA, greater than 1 (J/cm3) 1/2, oils phenylated silicone, and mixtures thereof.

Albizia julibrissin extract for improved skin radiance
U.S. Patent Application 20150017269
Publication date: Jan. 15, 2015
Assignee: Sederma

The present invention proposes an extract of Albizia julibrissin for the cosmetic treatment of skin glycation. The extract is preferably obtained from flowers and/or seeds. The application of the extract in cosmetic formulations aims to treat cutaneous fatigue, in particular improving the radiance of skin and eye contour, i.e., under-eye bags and dark circles, and for treating the loss of skin suppleness. A preferred composition, particularly adapted for the eye are, includes the Albizia Julibrissin extract combined with darutoside, which can be extracted from Siegesbeckia orientalis.

Composition to improve sensory characteristics
European Patent Application EP2826463
Publication Date: Jan. 21, 2015
Assignee: Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd.

According to these inventors, an increased number of cosmetics promote excellent feel during use with less stimulus to the skin and no stickiness, in addition to providing moisture, smoothness and silkiness. To improve the feel of cosmetics, organic powders and alcohol have been used but after long periods of storage, due to the sedimentation and agglomeration, it is necessary to re-distribute the organic powder before use. A method using a thickener was proposed to prevent the sedimentation of the organic powder but since this thickener covers the circumference of the organic powder, its silky feel is problematically reduced.

The present invention therefore provides a cosmetic composition that is stable, not sticky when used, has excellent moisture and smoothness, and maintains its effects without deterioration due to washing and/or sweating. Specifically, the invention comprises: a polyalkylene oxide-modified product obtained by reacting a polyalkylene oxide compound, a diol compound, and a diisocyanate compound; and water or a lower alcohol aqueous solution, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.3% mass or more polyalkylene oxide-modified product

Skin treatment method with lactobacillus extract
European Patent EP1722804
Publication date: Jan. 21, 2015
Assignee: E-L Management Corp.

According to this patent, antimicrobial peptides are a naturally occurring defense system that is widespeard throughout a number of plant and animal species. One type of antimicrobial peptide found in vertebrates is the group of molecules known as defensins. Skin cells have been shown to produce beta-defensins and in relation, exposure of skin cells to bacterial cells, in particular Pseudomonas, even in an inactivated state, can induce the production of beta-defensin-2 in keratinocytes. It was therefore desired to elicit this response at will from the skin with a safer stimulant, so as to provide a consistent protective agent on the skin. The present invention therefore provides a method for stimulating the production of beta-defensins in skin cells with a cosmetically acceptable non-pathogenic bacterium: lactobacillus.

Natural-feeling, long-wear cosmetic
WIPO Patent Application WO/2015/005490
Publication date: Jan. 15, 2015
Assignee: L'Oréal, R Niimi, M Shimizu and Y Kamidoi

This invention discloses a cosmetic composition that does not obstruct the skin physiology, has a good feeling on the skin, and has a superior long-wear effect for makeup. It comprises: a) at least one oxide of an alkaline earth metal, b) at least one metal soap, preferably a metal salt of C10-30 fatty acid, and c) an aqueous phase.

Color-changing o/w emulsion
WIPO Patent Application WO/2015/004631
Publication date: 01/15/2015
Assignee: L'Oréal

Described herein is a color-changing composition for makeup or skin/hair care that is in the form of an o/w emulsion formed from oily globules with a mean diameter of < 0.8 micrometers. These are dispersed in an aqueous phase comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s). The color-changing composition may be applied to any type of cosmetic composition, such as a foundation, lip balm, lip gloss, eyeliner, mascara, body makeup, care cream, a blemish balm (BB), tinted cream, anti-sun product and more. The color-changing composition is preferably a liquid.

Two-component, interactive emulsion
U.S. Patent Application 20150017110
Publication date: Jan. 15, 2015
Inventors: J. C. Carson

One aspect of the present invention describes the use of two oppositely charged surfactants as primary emulsifiers in two, separated parts of a product. The emulsifiers are chosen such that when the two parts of the emulsion product are mixed, the emulsifiers react to form water-insoluble compounds that are no longer able to function as emulsifiers; thus, the oil phase of the emulsion is precipitated onto the skin along with the emulsifier reaction product. Since none of the deposited materials are water-soluble, or capable of functioning as emulsifiers, the deposited oil phase is extremely resistant to being washed off. This technology finds applications in hand and body creams and lotions, baby care products, sunscreens, skin protective products, makeup systems and automotive and furniture polishes.

Ice-binding polypeptides
European Patent EP2225267
Publication Date: Jan. 14, 2015
Inventors: H Ramløv, C Wilkens and A Løbner-Olesen

Research on mechanisms that allow certain organisms to exist at subzero temperatures has revealed that they rely on at least two strategies: lowering of the freezing point of water by either inhibiting ice growth or by giving rise to controlled ice crystal formation. Anti-freeze polypeptides (AFPs) and low molecular weight substances such as polyalcohols, free amino acids and sugars are believed to be responsible for the former process, while ice-nucleating polypeptides (INPs) are responsible for the latter. The present invention relates to novel polypeptides comprising an ice-binding capability resulting in an ice crystal formation and/or growth reducing or inhibiting activity. Methods for producing and using such polypeptides are also disclosed. The use of the polypeptides according to the present invention in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations renders possible an effective treatment and prophylaxis of structural and cellular damage in the skin due to cold. This reduces damage such as redness, taughtness and increased sensitivities induced, e.g., by cold, wind and/or UV light, temperature-sensitive skin, negative changes in the skin, the lips and the mucous membranes in the nose and mouth area and the integumentary appendage caused by environmental stress (caused by temperature changes and UV light, smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals).

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