Next in Skin: Changing Perspectives on ‘Anti-Aging’

Skin care products are now promoting long-term benefits, and supporting skin’s natural functions through biohacking and longevity science, rather than focusing on anti-aging effects. This evolution ties into a broader trend in wellness, discussed here.

Editor’s note: The following article is an expanded version of the June 25, 2024, opening address by Katerina Steventon, Ph.D., at the 9th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference, Royal College of Physicians, London. Research supporting this presentation and the observations described herein was carried out by VISFO.¹

In the ever-evolving world of skin care, the concept of anti-aging has undergone significant transformation. The term itself, once a cornerstone of the beauty industry, is gradually being replaced by more positive and inclusive language. This shift reflects not only a change in how we perceive aging, but also the diverse approaches to skin care now available to consumers worldwide.

Discussions about changing the language around anti-aging have been happening for several years now. However, what is different today is the increased nuance and focus on the mechanisms of skin health rather than just surface-level aesthetics. Skin care products are now promoting long-term benefits, supporting skin’s natural functions through biohacking and longevity science. This evolution ties into a broader trend in wellness, where consumers are focused on healthy aging rather than simply looking younger.

Biological Backing for Skin Health and Care

As is well-known, skin aging is a complex process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is a natural process driven by genetics and hormonal changes. Over time:

• the production of collagen and elastin, proteins responsible for skin firmness and elasticity, decreases.
• This reduction leads to a loss of skin elasticity, resulting in wrinkles and fine lines.
• Additionally, the skin’s ability to retain moisture diminishes due to decreased levels of hyaluronic acid, contributing to skin dryness and further accentuating the signs of aging.

Extrinsic aging, on the other hand, is largely influenced by environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution and lifestyle choices. UV exposure accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin, while pollution can cause oxidative stress, leading to further skin damage. These factors collectively contribute to the visible signs of aging, which anti-aging products aim to address.

While the biological process of aging is well-understood, what is new is the increased demand for science-backed products as well as consumers’ agency to curate their lifestyle choices. Skin care has become a part of this holistic approach to their aging journey, integrating scientifically validated products into a broader wellness regimen. This has led to the rise of science-focused claims in skin care.

Rejuvenating Skin: The Changing Language of Anti-aging Claims

The anti-aging skin care market has long been dominated by the promise of maintaining a youthful appearance and reversing the signs of aging. However, as noted, the industry has moved away from the term anti-aging as it implies a battle against the natural process of growing older; a battle that can never truly be won.

Instead, the focus is shifting toward terms like youthful or rejuvenated skin and skin health. These terms are not only more positive, but also resonate better with consumers who are increasingly looking for products to enhance their natural beauty rather than fight against the inevitable; the increased focus on menopausal skin care is a good example of this.

In addition, ingredients like peptides to boost collagen, hyaluronic acid to replenish that which is naturally lost and approaches to combat inflammaging are gaining prominence. The rise of collagen banking and longevity formulations further underscores this shift toward a more informed, curated skin care routine.

The change in terminology has been ongoing but what sets it apart now is the depth of understanding of complexity around skin health and well-being. Brands are no longer simply replacing anti-aging with youthful skin, they are aligning their products with scientific insights into skin longevity, cellular health and the hallmarks of aging. This evolution is being driven by both consumers and brands, as evidenced by data showing significant consumer engagement with rejuvenation and skin health messaging across social media platforms.

Despite the changing terminology, the demand for products that promise to reduce the signs of aging remains strong. Leading skin care brands such as L'Oréal, The Estée Lauder Cos., La Mer, The Ordinary, No7, CeraVe, Chanel, La Roche-Posay and Neutrogena continue to dominate the market.

These brands have effectively adapted to the evolving language of skin care, offering products that emphasize skin health and rejuvenation rather than simply combatting age. This has led to the introduction of products focused on cellular repair, reinforcing the barrier to ensure skin health and boosting immunity, rather than attempting to reverse aging.

Global Perspectives on Anti-Aging Skin Care

The conversation around anti-aging skin care varies across different countries and cultures. This theme is popular in English-speaking countries like the U.S. and the UK, as well as in Spanish-speaking regions and Indonesia. However, the media platforms used to discuss these topics differ globally. In the U.S., blogs, online newsletters and forums are the primary sources of information, while other countries may rely more on social media or localized digital platforms.

Also, it's not just the platforms that differ, but also the specific skin concerns across regions. In Indonesia, skin brightening products dominate the conversation, while anti-wrinkle solutions are more popular in the U.S. and Europe. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram also play a significant role in shaping beauty trends, especially in Asia where localized digital media is the primary source for skin care education.

This underscores the need for brands to understand regional priorities when developing and marketing products. It also highlights the importance of understanding cultural nuances in terms of how skin care and beauty insights are communicated.

Industry vs. Consumer: Divergent Anti-aging Terminology

There is an interesting dynamic in terms of how the skin care industry vs. consumers communicate anti-aging terminology. Although as indicated, consumers are focused on skin health, the industry has been quicker to adopt terms like pro-aging and well-aging. Consumers still frequently use anti-aging to describe their skin care goals.

This disconnect suggests that while consumers are interested in embracing the natural aging process, they still seek products that offer tangible benefits, such as reduced wrinkles and improved skin texture.

Indeed, consumers continue to search for anti-aging solutions — as evidenced by 452,000 consumer mentions of anti-aging in comparison to only 20 mentions by the industry. This highlights that while the language is changing within the industry, consumers still prioritize visible results like wrinkle reduction and improved skin texture. Brands that succeed will be those that can effectively merge positive aging messages with proven, science-backed results.

The Future of Anti-aging: Toward Pro-aging and Well-aging

As the skin care industry continues to evolve, there is a growing recognition that the term anti-aging does not fully capture the diverse needs and desires of consumers. Concepts like pro-aging, well-aging and skin health are used as they emphasize a more positive and inclusive approach to skin care, a focus on supporting the skin's natural functions, and the embrace of the aging process with grace and confidence.

This shift toward pro-aging and well-aging reflects a broader societal trend. Aging is no longer seen as something to be feared or resisted but rather as something to be embraced with a focus on wellness, self-care and longevity. Products targeting inflammaging or those promoting cellular repair enable consumers to feel empowered through healthy aging rather than fixating on looking younger.

References

1. VISFO. (2024). Research provided to the author for June 25, 2024, opening address. 9th Anti-Aging Skin Care Conference, Royal College of Physicians, London.