In-Cosmetics Overview: Day 1 and 2

The following is a sampling of the days events, taken from Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine's Twitter account, CandTEditor. Tweets from the editors can also be followed at

The 2011 in-cosmetics was prefaced by the Italian SCC's (SiCC's) discussion of myths and truths in the Internet era. Elio Mignini, SICC president, gave his observation, "product quality is not an absolute entity." Mignini meant that quality is subject to interpretation, adding "consumers aren't willing to pay for quality that's not measurable." Next, Livia Biardi of Euroconsumer spoke on safety in cosmetics. Biardi stated, "Safety should not depend on the claims desired to be made." She added that the industry needs to strive for consumer-friendlier labels. Biardi concluded, "We must think about the target consumers and work to not communicate to them with a specialized language." Next, Vincenzo Rialdi and Marco Vassallo of the Italian Ingredients Association spoke. They presented a proactive rather than reactive approach to spreading good information rather than stirring up misinformation. Also during the SICC meeting, Dene Godfrey spoke on the consumer myth that preservatives are "bad." Godfrey noted that 'preservative-free' may be technically possible but not morally possible. He concluded with the plea for R&D to stop using the 'preservative-free' claim. Next, a representative of the manufacturer Just Italia presented its experience with alarmist information. According to the company, the most problematic channels for misinformation are forums and blogs. The company also receives requests for clarification on points of consumer alarm, with news clippings attached. Several of the company's responses to dispel myths are to provide its sales force with tools, as well as present consumers with clear communications, such as by developing a FAQ page on its website. Next, Luigi Rigano's presentation covered the exaggeration of "natural" as a myth of certified safety. Mignini wrapped up with the comment that "the future is in communicating." The SICC session closed with audience comments. One attendee noted how the same consumer alarmist claims and concerns discussed were also prevalent in Poland. Another noted how bloggers of the world are the new media, and that getting them informed is perhaps the key. Godfrey suggested getting certain bloggers accredited so that they have credentials behind them, to build trust. He furthered that groups such as the EWG and the Skin Deep ingredient database are examples of sources propogating misinformation. Monday, Finally, Mignini noted that many activist bloggers don't think rationally, so identifying a means to communicate with them is crucial.

Anna Ibbotson of Kline gave the first of the day's marketing presentations on ingredient trends in personal care. According to Ibbotson, skin care is the largest and fastest growing market segment in personal care. Anti-aging is driving skin care. Other segments innovating in personal care include naturals, home devices, nutriceuticals and men's care. Surfactants and conditioning polymers are driving the ingredient market, with emollients following at #3.

In an Innovation Seminar, BASF introduced their new prodict D-Stria. This oily extract of Serenoa Serrulata is said to reduce the appearance of stretchmarks. The ingredient is said to improve stretch marks by reorganizing the connective fibers of skin and stimulating the production of collagen and elastin.

IMCD presented its new D5 alternative, Smart5, at In-Cosmetics. Also launched by the company was Silkflo, a series of synthetic decene (C10 alpha olefin) oligomers. In addition, it launched Smartgel, a family of acrylic polymer derivitives that can be used at any step in formulating.

The Innovation Zone showcased a number of ingredients launched by suppliers. Among them: a vasodilating, cooling ester based on the nicotinic radical by B.C. Cosmetic and Food, a nonionic surfactant worldwide based on organic certified coconut fatty acids by Cremer Care, a melanin by Lipo Chemical designed to shield the skin from the high energy blue/violet visible light that ages skin and a highly concentrated liquid phospholipid compound comprised of sunflower, bio-ethanol and mixed tocopherol, among others.

The winners of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine's R&D Awards were: for Best New Technology—Croda Europe, Ltd. for its Solaveil SpeXtra inorganic UV absorber; and for Most Creative Application—Iredale Mineral Cosmetics for its Tantasia natural self-tanner. In addition, In-Cosmetics' Richard Hesk announced that the winner of the Best Ingredient Award was Lipo Chemicals.

Clariant introduced Velsan SC (INCI: Sorbitan Caprylate) a viscosity modifier that boosts preservation. The preservative booster can be used by formulators looking to formulate with less preservative. The company also discussed formulating concepts for the younger generation (tweens to 20s), which comprises 20% of the market. Such concepts included decorative cosmetics, dandruff products, anti-acne products and eco-responsible products, among others.

Azelis debuted a new formulating concept from Evonik: powder to cream formulations. The formulating concept was developed from the two companies collaborations and involves a dry oil and water phase. To create the formulation, the water is absorbed in silica and combined with an oil phase of light liquid paraffin. According to the company, the formulation concept has many applications, and it has a true powder feel.

DSM was present at In-cosmetics to discuss Regu-Fade, a pure resveratrol designed to brighten skin and even skin tone. According to the company, the brightening active, although specifically of interest in Asian markets, is also useful in Western skin care.

AkzoNobel introduced four new products as part of its Structure Cel line. The products are derived from the by-product of the production of cellulose and are therefore eco-friendly. These four introductions combine rheology modifying with foam boosting and they vary by their viscosity. According to the company, they require less energy for processing and they allow for less surfactant in cleansing systems.

Cognis introduced Cetiol RLF, a light emolient that is mild and can be used to replace cyclomethicone. The company also debuted formulation concepts for sensitive skin, where the company tests each ingredient for its effect.

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