Reducing Inflammation with Flavonoids, Capparenols

Yesterday, March 13, 2007, the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists featured Arnie Esperance, the marketing and technical director for Gattefossé, as its guest dinner speaker. Esperance spoke on two possible actives that could reduce inflammation and irritation in skin.

The first ingredient, Gatuline Derma Sensitive (INCI: Octyldodecyl myristate (and) Capparis spinosa (caper) bud extract) is a soothing active from caper buds, based on gemmotherapy. According to Esperance, the ingredient reduces irritation and hypersensitivity. It is recommended by the company for sensitive or reactive skin products.

The company tested the ingredient on 20 female volunteers with irritated skin and reported an improvement of 10-20% on nearly all parameters evaluated. Results revealed increased comfort and reduction of redness, followed by improved suppleness, decreased stinging and burning, and skin softness. At a 2% concentration, the ingredient was reported to decrease both TNF and IL-8 levels. In addition, the ingredient is said to be comparable to bisobolol in reducing inflammation and irritation.

Gatuline A (INCI: Ranunculus ficaria extract) was the second ingredient introduced by Esperance. The ingredient is the purified extract of pilewort roots. It is a lesser celandine extract with a guaranteed level of saponins that offers soothing and anti-redness properties. In vivo tests revealed the extract's effectiveness at reducing UV induced inflammation and diminishing red blotches. The company also reported the ingredient effective at reducing cutaneous micro-circulation, or permanent red blotches. According to the company, the ingredient is substantiated against acne rosacea. It is recommended  for formulation into after-sun products, soothing and protective skin care, skin care for babies and teens, aftershave products and treatment cosmetics.

For more information on the actives, visit

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