Finalists Announced for the 2012 Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards

The finalists for the 2012 Cosmetics & Toiletries® R&D Awards have been announced, which honor one new ingredient for its innovative design and/or method of development, and one finished product for the novelty and craft of its formulation and/or application of a technology.

Finalists were chosen based on the ratings of 10 international experts in the cosmetics industry, from a mix of manufacturers and universities. Ratings were based on significance to the industry and long-term impact. Judging now moves on to the final round, and winners will be announced at In-Cosmetics in Barcelona, April 17-19.

For Best New Ingredient, the finalists are the following (in random order).

Lonza (Arch), for its ReGeniStem Red Rice, an extract from a Himalayan Red Rice meristem culture that has been elicited to promote the expression of secondary metabolites. Targeting DNA methylation, the product decreases the amount of promoter methylation, which normally increases with age, to upregulate the expression of collagen protein. In addition, it upregulates dermatopontin protein expression in keratinocytes—and such expression was previously found only in fibroblasts. An in vivo study revealed the product reduced wrinkles and increased hydration.

Sederma, for its Resistem anti-aging ingredient combining eco-friendly production with a novel mechanism—hormesis. Based on vegetal stem cell cultures, the production method is designed to utilize natural resources sustainably while providing safe, high quality ingredients without causing damage to the environment. The mode of action is based on hormesis, i.e., the favorable biological protective and repair responses to low levels of stress. By activating the skin’s defenses via this approach, the ingredient has been shown to positively affect tissue regeneration, cell detoxification and cell longevity.

Interpolymer Corp., for its Syntran PC 5620, a water-based, film-forming polymer based on a novel acylate cross-linking technology. The material imparts superior gloss, adhesion, water-resistance and hardness. In addition, it provides quick dry time and easy removability with alcohol, and enables the formulation of nail polish that is hydrating, to promote the healthy growth of nails. Compatible with water-based actives, the ingredient eliminates concern for safety hazards, toxicity and VOC issues currently facing solvent-based nail enamels containing nitrocellulose without loss in performance.

Ashland, for its FlexiThix (INCI: Polyvinylpyrrolidone) rheology modifier, a polymer-based thickener demonstrated to work in difficult-to-thicken systems such as those having high salt content. The technology builds viscosity across a wide pH range and has been proven stable in the presence of a number of solvents and acids. It is also capable of thickening systems with varied polarity—from highly polar aqueous-based, to less polar ester-based formulations. This rheology modifier offers producers of water, alcohol and oil-based products a universal “drop-in” ingredient to solve difficult-to-thicken formulation challenges.

For Most Creative Application, the finalists are the following (in random order).

Kao Brands Co., for its John Frieda Frizz Ease 3-Day Straight Semi-Permanent Styling Spray. This product is a premium, mass-marketed styling spray that allows consumers to straighten their curly/ wavy hair for up to three days or until shampooed. The product envelops each hair strand and when it is exposed to heat from a flat iron, the product changes from a solid to more liquid state; upon cooling, the product changes back to a solid state, which provides salon-quality straightened hair that lasts.

Kimberly-Clark Corp., for its Kleenex brand Cool Touch Facial Tissue. The company has found that phase change materials impart a noticeable cooling effect on the skin and thus incorporated them into facial tissue. The tissues contain a proprietary blend of coconut oil, aloe extract and ingredients used commonly in anti-aging creams. The resultant product releases a cooling sensation, taking soothing to a different level. This showcases creative formulation chemistry and tenacious product development to elevate a tissue from a wiping product to a new consumer experience.

PZ Cussons, for its Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight & Smooth hair treatment. This kit leaves hair straighter and smoother for up to 40 days. It is based on a treatment containing Cysteamine—an innovative, gentle and effective straightening active that works by re-programming the hair so that its natural tendencies to frizz and curl are prevented, even in humid conditions. The company's patent-pending technology is blended with proteins and argan oil to leave hair looking smoother, healthier and more manageable for longer.

Procter & Gamble, for its SK-II Cellumination Mask In-Lotion. This daily use product delivers immediate and long-lasting hydration to the skin, similar to the effects of a substrate mask. In addition, it incorporates active ingredients for skin whitening/pigment control, epidermis thickening and glycation control. By combining these benefits, the lotion aims to holistically whiten the skin. Based on hexapeptide-11, a yeast fermentation lysate, the product was shown in vitro to have a thickening effect on epidermal fibroblasts by up-regulating the genes responsible for collagen and elastin production.

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