While this year's NY SCC Suppliers' Day overflowed with novel ingredient offerings—literally, into an entirely new section of the show floor, it seems that many suppliers shifted their focus to product concepts. As previously reported, product launches at the event ranged from ingredients targeting sensitive skin, aging, repair, naturally derived and eco-friendly materials and nutricosmetics, to thickeners, skin brighteners, stabilizers and AP/Deo actives.
However, this year, suppliers seemed less focused on individual ingredient launches and more focused on entire portfolios to provide base formulation ranges, to act as partners, and to support politically and socially responsible product development. While these are not entirely new approaches, the fact that more suppliers went this route is new. Following are just a few examples.
A Spectrum in Sun
Initiating Suppliers' Day as it does every year, Croda held its annual press breakfast, which this year focused on sun care ingredients, especially to address new FDA sun care regulations. The range of products presented aim to assist formulators in developing compliant, cutting-edge products with both UVA and UVB protection, some of which utilize cold process emulsifiers and structurants to boost SPF. Jennifer Hart, marketing manager for Croda in Cheshire, UK, presented the company’s Solaveil ABC products (“Advanced Broad-spectrum Coverage") that can be added to sun formulas in order to meet the FDA’s 370 nm-protection requirement. She explained the product use titanium dioxide, "since this ingredient is accepted pretty much worldwide."
Among other ingredients, Hart specifically discussed the new Solaveil AT-300, which can be used as a single active or in combination with others. It was developed with a hydrophobic coating to impart some water-resistance. Further, the ingredient carrier is naturally derived; however, the proprietary particle design process is key to its efficacy.
Jennifer Donahue, marketing manager of skin care and makeup for Croda USA, then reiterated the fact that a good amount of re-formulation work had to be done to meet the FDA's sun care requirements but introduced three approaches to sun protection, including a light and natural-feeling SPF 16 cream from a cold process, for eco-conscious consumers wanting a more natural feel; a very water-resistant formula with SPF for consumers actively engaged in water sports for longer periods of time; and a “boost” formula with SPF 30 for everyday wear. She specifically discussed the company’s Crodafos CES emulsifier that can impart some water-resistance without forming a film. It does so by forming multilamellar vesicles on skin.
After the presentations, members of the press were taken on a lab tour, where Li Zhi, PhD, showed the irradiation process to test in vitro for SPF, which involved pre-irradiating PMMA plates onto which samples of the product were applied up to 4 MEDs.
Milder, Greener and Thicker—Speaking the Lingo
During the NY SCC exhibition, Lubrizol’s marketing manager Timothy Roach discussed products for skin and hair conditioning and cleansing. The company's Merquat conditioner is synergistically focused for mild cleansing in addition to conditioning for color retention. In addition, the Fixate polymer which was designed to be applied to hair specifically via a foam delivery. He also highlighted the natural Glucamate VLT (methyl glucoside derived from corn/vegetal sources) that is an associative thickener. He noted that although such chemistries are not entirely desirable, creating them from more natural sources makes them greener.
Considering the development of these product offerings, Roach said, "The overall goal is to listen to what the clients want and be a solution provider and partner; to understand what they are trying to accomplish." For instance, he described the demand from consumers for special esthetics to elicit experiences. "This is what the consumers want, not the 'associative thickener,'" he said, emphasizing the importance of speaking the same language. "Lubrizol’s approach is to bring these languages closer together," he added.
Finally, regarding the company’s acquisitions, Roach explained that the aim was to leave the expertise in the hands of the experts. For example, with the acquisition of Active Organics, Lubrizol did not want to interfere with the company's established expertise, so it maintains operations and even exhibits separately. "And don't worry, they are still baking cookies," he added—a tradition of Active Organics' at almost every exhibition.
John Paro, president and CEO of The Hallstar Company, discussed the company’s acquisitions of Biochemica and B&T srl, noting how 100% of the employees were retained, and that the real focus is on identifying synergies between the entities. For instance, Hallstar’s photostabilizer activity fits very well with the new acquisition of Biochemica because many natural ingredients can be unstable; however, Hallstar had the answer for this. "It’s all about providing the chemistry solution to a need in the marketplace," said Paro, who added, "and technologies are a continuous development process."
Featured at the event was the company's Polycrylene S1 (Proposed INCI: Polyester-X), a singlet and triplet quencher that permits formulators to combine active ingredients that were once considered to be too photo-unstable.
Giorgio Dell'Acqua, a regular contributor to Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, launched a new company named Freedom Actives. Based in New Jersey, its focus is on the development and supply of natural ingredients for finished product companies by, according to Dell'Acqua, “Creating harmony between the growing demand of a sustainable and ethical ingredients supply chain, and the need to support cultural diversity of communities in emerging, developing countries worldwide.”
Dell'Acqua explained that the company's choices serve the good of rural communities by extending their added value into the global market, but also by developing the local economy. His philosophy is that high social and environmental commitment in the supply chain is achieved by sustainable actions aiming to conserve all of earth’s resources and imparting a respect for nature. Specifically, he stressed, "The key is re-investing the company’s revenues into environmental and social microfinance programs."
Currently, the company sources a full range of natural and organic products, including vegetable oils, butters and waxes, vegetable extracts, natural scrubs and natural encapsulating system. It also provides expertise on the encapsulation of plant extracts, fragrances, oils, actives, and flavors for food, home and personal care; customized ingredients; customized medical devices for dermatological applications; and educational programs for skin and hair car.
Overall, the 2012 NY SCC Suppliers' Day was a great success, stretching the line of attendees out the entrance and to the parking lot as the doors opened the first day. Exhibitors and attendees alike felt that the visitor traffic was good, the discussions held were great, and seeing friends and colleagues again was fantastic. For more information, visit the NY SCC website.