Building a Science-Forward Beauty Brand Is Harder Than Ever. Here’s What I've Learned.

Today, many consumers recognize functional ingredients—niacinamide, ceramides, peptides—and have a working understanding of what they do. This shift has changed the rules of brand communication. It’s no longer enough to reference “advanced botanicals” or “proprietary complexes.” Consumers want specifics.
Today, many consumers recognize functional ingredients—niacinamide, ceramides, peptides—and have a working understanding of what they do. This shift has changed the rules of brand communication. It’s no longer enough to reference “advanced botanicals” or “proprietary complexes.” Consumers want specifics.
Ded Pixto at Adobe Stock

From before I started as a chemist in 1990 and up until now, the beauty industry could get away with a lot of, let's call it, poetry. Products promised to transform the skin using "proprietary complexes" that sounded vaguely scientific but were rarely, if ever, explained. Marketing departments leaned heavily on aspiration, and consumers—while curious—had few tools to interrogate the claims.

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