Various sizes and forms of hyaluronic acid (HA) can be layered onto and into skin for hydrating, anti-aging and other benefits. Bloomage Biotech demonstrated this in an in-cosmetics Global formulating workshop to create a 4D HA Revitalization and Moisturizing Essence containing six HA technologies.
The formula was designed to deliver different forms of HA to varied skin depths; starting from the surface, with Hyacross (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, 3.0M Da) which delivers a protective, dense film to reduce water loss from the inside and provide 24 hr moisturization, anti-pollution and anti-UV properties. Next, two sodium hyaluronate ingredients, Hyabloom HA-T and HA-TLM 20-40, of different sizes (1.3M-1.8M Da and 0.2M-0.4M Da) hold water on the skin surface, nourishing the stratum corneum.
A sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Hymagic ACHA, firmly adheres to the stratum corneum, providing hydration and repairing the damage corneum, whereas miniHA (INCI: Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, < 10K Da) provides deep moisturization, repairs damaged cells and imparts antioxidant and anti-aging properties.
Finally, a hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (< 5K Da), microHA, rapidly penetrates the epidermis and dermis, hydrating and restoring the skin from the inside. To see the formulation demo, view our Facebook Live web post.
The prototype formula was built under the leadership of Jessica Qu, senior product manager for the company, and comprised the ingredients and steps outlined as follows:
