Growth at the Cellular Level

Growth factors and hormones have been popping up in recent product launches in the United States. Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) has been used in facial skin care in China for several years but it has more recently reached the United States as an emerging new ingredient.

EGF is used to stimulate cell turnover, while growth hormone has been used to promote cellular vitality, according to Mintel. Although studies are inconclusive and highly controversial, growth hormone has been purportedly linked to slowing or reversing the signs of aging. So what is the difference between growth factor and growth hormone?

Human growth hormone is released by the pituitary gland and stimulates growth and cell reproduction, reports Mintel. Human growth factors promote cell differentiation and maturation—they are produced throughout the body, rather than in the pituitary gland like growth hormone.

A bio-engineered human growth hormone is the key ingredient in the new 3Lab “H” Serum Age-Defying Booster. “H” Serum is fortified with 3Lab’s own Prodermage and Dermaxel complexes to reduce lines and wrinkles, as well as protect against free radical damage. Due to the controversy surrounding the use of growth hormone for antiaging, it remains to be seen if growth hormone will become more widely used.

Mintel's Global New Products Database (GNPD), along with Mintel Cosmetic Research, shows that growth factor is becoming more widely used. In China, companies like Baoyan, Guangzhou Jiaolan Cosmetics, Guangzhou Sisder Health & Beauty, Xiangfbai and Shenzhen Beijiamei Cosmetics all offer products containing growth factor. Growth factor has been showing up in facial skin care products there for several years. The following growth products are now available in the United States.

Revive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit was launched and it proved to be one of the most revolutionary facial skin care products in years. Peau Magnifique contains telomerase, EGF, fibroblast growth factor (FGF) and hyaluronic acid. Telomerase is claimed to be "the only product that recruits adult stem cells into brand new skin cells without surgical intervention.” The EGF is said to stimulate cell turnover while the FGF stimulates collagen synthesis. Plastic Surgeon Gregory Bays Brown, MD, president and founder of Revive Skincare, first came across EGF in his research with burn victims. Applying EGF to burns and wounds was found to promote a more rapid and complete recovery, which led him to discover that EGF could actually regenerate aging skin.

EGF can also be found in PureTek Dermectin Eye Cream Gel. This gel contains a peptide formula and is said to contain, “clinically proven ingredients.” Bioflavonoid complex is used to reduce puffy appearance, while the peptide-rich formula is formulated to lighten dark circles, moisturize and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This product also contains the Dermacin Peptide Complex.

A bio-complex of growth factors is used in the new iS Clinical Youth Complex. The product is formulated with iNNOVASE, with pharmaceutical grade antioxidants, growth factors and natural hydrators. This product is also intended to produce cellular turnover, while optimizing cellular metabolism. However, it is most unique in its claim to produce measured results in only hours, with increased benefits over time.

Paradise Skin Marine EGF Serum is formulated with EGF to stimulate cell growth and repair. EGF is often used in antiaging products due to the loss of growth-factor receptors associated with aging. Stimulating growth-factor receptors can also reportedly help to soften scar tissue over time. Marine EGF Serum also contains antioxidants like vitamin E and green tea extract.

Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD) tracks new product launches, trends and innovations internationally. Mintel Cosmetic Research tracks mass market and luxury cosmetic innovations in France and the United States. For additional information regarding either Mintel GNPD or Mintel Cosmetic Research, visit or call Mintel International at 1-312-932-0600.

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