Who will win a Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) Allē Award in 2025? Find out during our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner, to be held on March 12, 2025, at the Ocean Place Resort & Spa in Long Branch, NJ. Following are the 20 finalists for Active Cosmetic Ingredients — check out their profiles. (Also see the finalists for Base Ingredients).
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Who will win a Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) Allē Award in 2025? Find out during our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner, to be held on March 12, 2025, at the Ocean Place Resort & Spa in Long Branch, NJ. Following are the 20 finalists for Active Cosmetic Ingredients — check out their profiles. (Also see the finalists for Base Ingredients).
>>> Get tickets to the Awards Dinner here.<<<
Active Cosmetic Ingredient: Anti-aging
1. Altheostem, Provital, S.A.
With a new “dermohacking” approach, Altheostem appeared as a highly innovative lab-grown ingredient derived from Althaea rosea petal stem cells. It selectively eliminates senescencent fibroblasts thanks to its thoroughly proven – and multi-awarded – senolytic activity. Altheostem leverages biotechnology for a tailored biological action that leads to healthier and youthful skin in vivo. Its power is also AI-proven with a new machine learning system, confirming that Altheostem decreases the apparent age by up to three years.
2. Corneopeptyl, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
Repeated attacks can damage the skin barrier, leading to water loss, increased permeability and, eventually, premature aging. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, collaborating with the Infinity Institute, discovered a new protein: LCE6A, known to be essential for mechanical resistance of corneocytes. By mimicking LCE6A activity, Corneopeptyl strengthens the corneocyte envelope resulting in a more resilient epidermal barrier with improved function and reduced permeability. Using AI and a patented algorithm, Corneopeptyl was demonstrated to future-proof skin by reducing the appearance of aging signs, with a rejuvenating effect of up to four years younger. It is patented and obtained by green chemistry-based synthesis.
3. EterWell Youth, DSM-Firmenich
Senolytics, the new frontier for skin care, addresses the root causes of aging. Acting at the cellular level to remove senescent cells, EterWell Youth allows healthy cells to function properly. So, instead of addressing the results of biological aging, EterWell Youth removes the cells that cause the damage in the first place. Users look nine years younger in three months with EterWell Youth, the universal senolytic solution that works on all skin types, ethnicities, genders and ages. It has a positive impact across all skin layers: skin texture, skin structure, skin elasticity and firmness significantly improved vs placebo after three months.
4. JuniperBright, Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd.
JuniperBright is Juniperus communis fruit (juniper berry) extract. This ingredient reduces epidermal lipofuschin, which is the cause of dull skin that accumulates with age, through dual mechanisms: activation of proteasome (prevention of lifofuschin formation) and autophagy (degradation of already formed lipofuschin). Human monitor test shows that it improves skin brightness by increasing internal reflected light, improves the skin L-value, and reduces age spots and pores, without affecting the melanin index. This means JuniperBright contributes to "true brightening" independent of skin color for borderless beauty.
5. Shiloxome, Provital, S.A.
Provital presents a new endophyte-based platform, Triplobiome Technology, to activate skin intelligence through the synergistic power of interkingdom symbiosis. Shiloxome emerges as the first ecosystem ingredient able to visibly combat aging signs by enhancing the skin’s natural barriers, hence safeguarding the skin against pollution, and making it the perfect solution to aging skin needs. This biotech ingredient derived from an endophytic yeast offers multi-ome skin protection that goes far beyond barrier care with a unique and first-of-its-kind in vivo whole-lipidome analysis. It is an anti-pollution and overall skin restructuring active that supplies the skin with an all-encompassing well-aging effect.
6. Timelys, Greentech
Timelys is a natural active ingredient to enhance skin longevity. Developed from Schisandra chinensis, adaptogen superberries of wild flora classified among the superior medicines, Timelys is rich in schisandrin, a phytomolecule known as a skin healthspan enhancer. While optimizing essential interconnected cellular functions over time and acting on skin longevity mechanisms (autophagy, mitochondrial activity, microcirculation, inflammation...), Timelys has an intensive preventive action on wrinkles, for glowing and smoothed skin (clinical study of three multi-ethnic cohorts). Timelys represents a perfect blend of the power of nature and a cutting-edge scientific process, to provide a complete solution to preserve and extend skin longevity.
7. Vecollage Fortify L, Evonik Corp.
Vecollage Fortify L (proposed INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) sh-Polypeptide-69) is a new vegan and skin-identical collagen polypeptide produced through biotechnology. This innovative product offers dual working mechanisms, protecting collagen from the degradation of proteins in the extracellular matrix while promoting collagen synthesis. In vitro, ex vivo and in vivo tests have demonstrated the effectiveness of the product, with ex vivo test confirming its anti-aging efficacy on the dermal-epidermal junction. This collagen is halal-certified and sustainably sourced from renewable resources through precision fermentation. Structurally identical to a selected section of human collagen type III, this vegan collagen demonstrates superior performance.
8. Zellulin, Avant Proteins Pte., Ltd.
There are mainly four existing peptide production methods: 1) chemical extraction, 2) conditioned medium using animal-sourced discarded materials, 3) synthetic and 4) precision fermentation. The first two are not sustainable, rely on animal-based input materials, and have low traceability and quality control. The latter two, chemically defined, only provide benefits of the single molecule produced. With our novel patented method, we can produce cell-identical multiple peptides, meaning the same concoction as what a cell produces for its functioning, in a fully traceable, sustainable and cost-effective way. Zellulin bioplatform's first product, Zellulin ZelluGEN, is a biotech-enabled ECM-targeted regenerative peptide complex.
9. Zenerity, Lubrizol
The Zenerity biotech ingredient is a revolutionary hydrobiome-derived solution for sensitive skin concerns, addressing the often-overlooked connection between diet and skin health. Extensive research shows it modulates the RAGE-NFκB pathway, reducing stressorin secretion, AGEs, inflammation and lipofuscin accumulation, even under metabolic stress conditions. Clinical studies prove its effectiveness in leaving sensitive skin calm, healthy, luminous and youthful. What sets this ingredient apart is its ability to mitigate metabolic stress signaling and mimic the benefits of a healthy anti-inflammatory diet, providing a comprehensive solution for sensitive skin. Our innovative approach meets the demand for effective, holistic, safe and sustainable cosmetic solutions.
Active Cosmetic Ingredient: Hair/Scalp Care
10. Algaktiv Densidyl, Algaktiv
Algaktiv Densidyl is a groundbreaking active ingredient powered by advanced microalgae technology, specifically designed to combat both hair loss and graying. Its unique dual-action approach targets the emossome (emotional stress) and exposome (environmental stress), providing comprehensive hair protection. Clinically proven to increase hair density, restore natural pigmentation and improve scalp health, it is effective at a low 2% dosage, making it a cost-efficient solution for both men and women. Sustainable and eco-friendly, Algaktiv Densidyl sets a new standard in hair care innovation, merging performance with environmental responsibility.
11. Curamina, Curie Co.
Curamina is a groundbreaking dual-action bioactive ingredient for hair care. Designed to work with protein ingredients, Curamina is a unique bond builder, initiating covalent peptide bonds. Curamina bonds proteins to the hair fiber and seals in the benefits with a long-lasting, resilient film shown to withstand multiple washes. This multifaceted ingredient revitalizes hair health, improves styling and manageability, preserves hair color, and more. Curamina is a biomimetic ingredient mimicking the function of transglutaminase, an enzyme found in skin and hair follicles known to build peptide bonds. Curamina is a proprietary transglutaminase tailored for hair care formulations and powered by biotechnology.
12. Luteana Scalp, Microphyt
Luteana Scalp is the revolutionary approach to sensitive scalp. Developed by Microphyt from a Tahitian microalgae, it acts as a novel way to halt the spreading of dry dandruff and restore a healthy scalp. Its dual action rebalances structural and biochemical imbalances to halt dry dandruff spread with long-lasting effect.
Highlighted features include:
- It is an oil-based bioactive concentrating two powerful marine molecules: fucoxanthin and DHA.
- It targets both structural and biochemical imbalances by strengthening the scalp’s hydrolipidic film and providing soothing effects to reduce the spread of dry dandruff.
- It helps regain a healthy scalp and enhance overall quality of life.
13. Scalpinist-Senso, RAHN AG
Individuals with scalp sensitivity experience sensations of discomfort, irritation and itchiness against stressors that would not typically trigger such reactions. Excessive oiliness was established to the sensitive scalp condition. Sebaceous glands respond to stress by increasing sebum production, which can contribute to disruptions in the microbiome, supporting inflammation and resulting sensations of discomfort. Scalpinist-Senso is a unique active ingredient designed for sensitive-oily scalp. It aims to alleviate scalp discomfort within two weeks by restoring balance to the disturbed microbiome and reducing scalp sebum through a simple rinse-off application. It is obtained by extracting Maclura cochinchinensis leaves, rich in prenylated bioflavonoids.
>>> Get tickets to the Awards Dinner here.<<<
14. Symfeel Quat Green, Symrise
This 100% naturally derived, sustainably sourced alternative to polyquats delivers the well-known efficacy of polyquaternium-7 and polyquaternium-10 while embracing sustainability. It is an innovative solution for replacing synthetic PQ-7 and PQ-10 in hair care formulations.
Key benefits include:
- increasing hair shine and softness,
- improving hair resistance against breakage,
- controlling frizz,
- imparting effective film forming,
- conditioning and detangling hair and
- improving hair combability in wet and dry conditions.
Active Cosmetic Ingredient: Natural/Bio-derived
15. Activated Silk 33B-α, Evolved By Nature
Activated Silk 33B-⍺ is the natural peptide innovation that brings superior skin barrier boosting to all producy formats creative formulators can imagine. Unlike synthetic and petrochemical derived ingredients like ceramides and petrolatum, this bioactive can be used in water-based formulas, including sprays. And unlike synthetics that simply coat the skin, this bioactive is in conversation with the skin, encouraging the natural production of claudin-1, the tight junction protein that binds barrier cells together for younger, healthier looking skin. It's also designed to remain on skin after rinsing, so actives can now be delivered in cleansers and washes.
16. CycloRetin, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
CycloRetin is a patented natural cyclic peptide that offers the same anti-aging benefits as retinol without irritation. Responsibly sourced from Prince Ginseng, an adaptogenic plant revered in Traditional Chinese Medicine, it contains heterophyllin B, a revolutionary cyclic peptide that gently improves signs of aging in only 14 days. As efficient as retinol in reducing wrinkles and outperforming bakuchiol on skin sagging, CycloRetin stimulates collagen production and skin matrix architecture. Easy to formulate and efficient at 0.3%, CycloRetin can be used worldwide in formulas designed for both day and night.
Active Cosmetic Ingredient: Skin, Body and Bath/Hygiene
17. Bloomcolla Col III, Bloomage Biotechnology Corp., Ltd.
Bloomcolla Col III Recombinant Collagen III is expressed through the fermentation of yeast based on a patented technology. Through AI-assisted sequence design and more than 1,000 tests, active site-enriched fragments were accurately screened from natural collagen sequences to ultimately select the optimal sequence. This sequence consists of 497 amino acids, including 11 types of integrin binding sites, which can promote cell proliferation, migration and adhesion; inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors; and provide a safe and effective repairing and soothing solution for sensitive skin.
18. Epispot, BASF
Epispot is a rosebay willowherb extract that provides authentic flawless beauty for consumers. It addresses the root causes of imbalance in blemish-prone skin including excess oil, microbial dysbiosis and the overpowering skin's defense systems. BASF developed a new method for the 3D visualization of skin structures to understand the pilosebaceous unit. Based on two years of scientific research, the company combined its expertise in cell culture, histology and microscopy to develop this innovative ex vivo model and visualize and understand the natural lipids in skin. Through use of this novel method and others, the company developed Epispot.
19. Illumiscin-Glow, RAHN AG
Today’s digital generation celebrates differences, individuality and diversity. There is a desire to optimize skin tone, but away from "simple" bleaching to the extreme and toward aspects of healthy skin such as radiance, luminosity, brightness and reduction of redness. Illumiscin-Glow is a modern skin lightener, whose efficacy has been demonstrated in a multi-ethnic panel to: improve skin brightening, reduce sunspot visibility, increase skin luminosity and reduce redness. Illumiscin-Glow inhibits tyrosinase and blocks melanin synthesis thanks to hordatines, a novel class of tyrosinase inhibitors, which has shown superior binding to human tyrosinase, as proven by molecular docking experiments using AI.
20. PrimalHyal 50 Life, Givaudan Active Beauty
Years of research have culminated in PrimalHyal 50 Life, a cornerstone in the sustainable development of the hyaluronic acid molecule. Leveraging strain engineering and precision fermentation, Givaudan Active Beauty production methods have been revolutionized to become more environmentally friendly, achieving an outstanding ~91% reduction in environmental impact.*
PrimalHyal 50 Life comprises significant improvements across various environmental parameters, as demonstrated by a life cycle analysis*, boasting:
- 92% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions*
- 95% reduction in acidification and eutrophication of water*
- 90% reduction in non-renewable energy usage* and
- 75% reduction in water consumption.*
* Based on cradle-to-gate LCA carried out by an external firm in 2023 using specific Givaudan data.
>>> Get tickets to the Awards Dinner here.<<<
