Gattefossé has launched Solastemis (INCI: Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Sechium Edule Fruit Extract) at in-cosmetics Global. Particularly meant for dermo-cosmetics, this active ingredient protects the skin against UV rays and responds to the growing concern about skin health.
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Gattefossé's skin biology team partnered with a research group specializing in the study of genotoxic stress to study the effects of UVA radiation on epidermal stem cells.
Out of this collaboration, it was discovered that epidermal stem cells have a great capacity to fight UVA aggressions due to more efficient repair mechanisms; however, they remain sensitive to UVA-induced DNA damage and lose part of their self-renewal capacity. The stem cells' so-called “stemness” potential is ultimately related to functional and structural alterations of the epidermis.
Solastemis acts at the center of the epidermis mechanics by protecting the DNA of keratinocytes from lesions induced by UVA radiation and by boosting the endogenous DNA repair system. It preserves epidermis stem cells, ensuring proper homeostasis for the skin. It also offers a shield for the dermal extra-cellular matrix by protecting key macromolecules (collagen, elastin) from degradation induced by solar exposure.
Tested on a panel of 33 Caucasian women (37-55 years of age), Solastemis was confirmed to reduce symptoms of photoaging versus the placebo. Results showed a reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles combined with an overall improved skin smoothness. Skin tone is embellished for a more lucent, even and healthier complexion.
Solastemis features a natural composition. Active molecules are extracted from Sechium edule, also known as chayote or christophene, this fruit is cultivated and manually harvested following zero-waste principles in the cirque of Salazie on La Réunion island. Relationships with local producers and harvesters guarantee Gattefossé's traceability and quality from field to factory.
As part of its CSR program, Gatt’Up & Act, Gattefossé undertook different initiatives to ensure the financial stability and the technical evolution of this supply chain (supply agreement, financing of equipment, etc). The extraction through Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents technology (NaDES), and a tailor-made manufacturing process with a minimal number of processing steps and limited duration make it possible to obtain an eco-designed ingredient of 99.85% natural origin content, according to ISO 16128.
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“One of the primary strengths of Solastemis is its ability to provide biological protection against UVA-induced epidermal damage," said Boris Vogelgesang, R&D director of cosmetic actives at Gattefossé. "UVA radiation is commonly associated with photoaging, based on its ability to penetrate human skin deeper than UVB radiation, deep down to the dermis. However, UVA radiation strongly affects the epidermis, notably by affecting the self-renewal potential of keratinocyte stem cells, thereby compromising the constant renewal of the epidermis. Solastemis™ has been shown in vitro to reduce oxidative stress within epidermal keratinocytes and to improve the endogenous DNA repair systems, both of which contribute to the preservation of epidermal self-renewal potential. Interestingly, it provides significant protection to the dermis as well making it a perfect solution for global photoprotection at the epidermal and dermal levels.”
“With skin care shifting to skin health care, the need for health-centric cosmetic products is dramatically increasing," said Laurie Canel, product marketing leader of personal care actives at Gattefossé. "In the field of skin health, UV protection is a central topic and photoaging a never-ending concern. With Solastemis™, Gattefossé pushes the boundaries of photoprotection. This active has been developed with the objective of providing deep protection of the cellular integrity against UVA radiation, by acting at the heart of our cells, in DNA. This ingredient is the result of several years of research by our experts in sourcing natural products, plant chemistry, cell biology, and clinical evaluation. They combined their know-how to make most of exotic fruit, Sechium edule, and transformed it into a highly potent active ingredient."