Buddleja davidIi Stem Cell for Oxidative and Photodamage Protection

At In-Cosmetics in Barcelona, Istituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche (I.R.B. Srl) is highlighting a stem cell blend from Buddeja davidii that has added a UVA protective benefit in addition to its other protective activities. Buddleja Davidii Stems G (INCI: Glycerin (and) Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture (and) Xanthan Gum), part of the company's Powerful Stems line, is now available with a standardized content of verbascoside, a secondary metabolite able to protect the skin against UVA damage due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and chelating properties.

Powerful Stems are produced through HTN Biotechnology, the company's process to physiologically orientate the production of specific substances involved in defensive responses of the plant against environmental, physical and biological stress. Through the in vitro culture of plant stem cells in protected and highly controlled conditions, these substances are produced with considerable biological properties.

Buddleja davidIi is a shrub of the Scrophulariaceae family, which is native of Eastern Asia and widely spread in Europe, mostly as ornamental plant. In traditional medicine, Buddleja plants are widely used for their wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties.

The stem cell culture of Buddleja Davidii contains verbascoside, isoverbascoside, leucosceptoside A and martinoside which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective activity. In addition, it has phytosterols, amino acids and polysaccharides, which contribute moisturizing properties. These elements of the stem cell culture allow for effective and broad protection from photodamage and oxidative stress .

The blend protects skin from the three main mechanisms of photoaging: UV-induced oxidative stress, inflammation and UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). The company found that at 50%, less of the blend of required than rutin and resveratrol to reduce the DPPH free radical, demonstrating its antioxidant activity. Verbascoside shows a strong anti-inflammatory activity since it induces a dose-dependent decrease of the expression of the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8 on primary cultures of human keratinocytes stimulated by TNF-α. Finally, due to a synergistic effect of its constituents, the blend inhibits collagenase at the same level of purified verbascoside.

The blend is recommended at 0.5–5% and is compatible with o/w emulsions and serums.

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