Yeast-derived Barrier Repair Active

Silab has introduced an active derived from Torulaspora delbrueckii that is said to improve the barrier function of the epidermis. Nachyline (INCI: Not Provided) reportedly regulates epidermal homeostasis by controlling calcium inflow into keratinocytes via the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChRs) pathway.

According to the company, the active: stimulates the formation of adherens junctions, boosts keratinocyte differentiation, reinforces the cohesion and stratification of the epidermis and contributes to the organization of the stratum corneum.

To test its keratinocyte differentiation and adhesion via the NAChR pathway, the active was tested at 1% with the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor antagonist mecamylamine. The active was found to increase lorcrin synthesis by 282%. In the presence of mecamylamine, the increase in loricrin synthesis is reduced by 58%.

The active's effect on epidermal maturation was tested by evaluating loricrin and E-cadherin against 1% of the active. It was found that the active accelerates the construction of the epidermis and contributes to its cohesion and maturation by stimulating loricrin by 22% and E-cadherin by 43%.

The company found that at 3%, the active limits impairments in the barrier function to preserve the integrity of the stratum corneum. After 14 days of twice-daily application, the active decreased transepidermal water loss by 11% in 84% of the volunteers. At 3%, the active was also found to improve the appearance of skin by 25.7% in 79% of volunteers compared to a placebo.

The ingredient is recommended for repairing skin care.

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