Oligosaccharides for Barrier Function and Hydration

Sederma has launched an active ingredient that is based on oligosaccharides to improve both barrier function and skin hydration. Subliskin (INCI: not provided) contains specific oligosaccharides obtained by a symbiosis-like biotechnological process.

Hyaluronic acid is a fundamental constituent of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, according to the company. It is also, however, present in the active epidermal layers where, associated with its receptor CD44, it creates a microsphere around the keratinocyte, serving as a molecular reservoir of water but also of other elements necessary for cutaneous homeostasis.

The oligosaccharides in the ingredient are said to act on keratinocytes and induce chain reactions down to dermal fibroblasts. These reactions allow the synthesis of elements that are essential to cutaneous homeostasis and regeneration.

The active's oligosaccharides reportedly increase not only hyaluronic acid and its receptor CD44 synthesis, but also elastin and laminin-5 synthesis. The company terms this technology Glycokines, after the natural sugar sequence mimicking oligosaccharide sequences found in the skin.

The company reports that, beginning at age 30, the thin skin of humans is sensitive to aggressions and exhibits dryness, fatigue and lines. In vivo tests were carried out on 29 female volunteers with thin, fragile, dry skin with lines who applied a cream twice daily containing 3% of the active for two months, in comparison with a placebo. The results demonstrated that the active improved the barrier function and skin hydration, and could thus be used in skin care or antiaging applications.

The company used its Aeroflexmeter to assess skin visco-elasticity properties and showed, after application of the active, a 12.3% increase in resistance, a 14.1% increase in density, and a 9.1% increase in firmness after one month. The cutaneous microrelief was smoothed by 30%, and the wrinkles were erased by 46% in one month.

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