Efficacy/Claims Substantiation

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Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products

May 20, 2014Trefor A. Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

Correlating Aging with Skin’s Mechanical and Optical Properties

May 1, 2014Olga Freis, PhD, Gilles Perie and Andreas Rathjens, BASF Beauty Creations/Care Solutions, Pulnoy and Essey-lès-Nancy, France

The aim of this study was to monitor the evolution of biomechanical and optical properties of the skin with aging. Different biophysical parameters were measured, including skin: elasticity and firmness, color, brightness, fluorescence emission, sebum content, hydration and pH. A significant evolution of the evaluated parameters with aging was observed.

‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims

Jan 24, 2014Chris McLeod, HPCI Media

Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

Jan 12, 2014Trefor Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

Anti-wrinkle Claims Substantiation

Nov 1, 2013Chris McLeod, HPCI media

Personal care is now dominated by want rather than need, and one facet at the crux of this trend is the taboo word of the century: wrinkles. As with the majority of cosmetic products and claims in the 21st century, product development teams aim to differentiate their products from competitors in one way or another, to create a successful brand and generate profit.