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Collagens I and III, and Elastin Activation for Anti-aging
Feb 24, 2014
As an alternative to semi-invasive facial rejuvenation techniques, the authors developed an active ingredient to reactivate senescent fibroblasts by stimulating metabolic pathways for collagens I and III, and elastin. The biological activity of the resulting ingredient is investigated here using in vitro models, ex vivo explants and human volunteers.
Measuring the Water Content of Hair
Feb 21, 2014
Consumers have demonstrated a clear desire for hair that isn’t “dried out” while also demonstrating a clear distaste for the effects of high humidity on hair. To find the balance in creating products, it is necessary to have an accurate means of measuring hair’s water content. This article describes equipment used to perform this task while highlighting experimental variables that can produce suspect results and lead to incorrect conclusions.
‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims
Jan 24, 2014
Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.
State of São Paulo in Brazil Bans Cosmetic Testing on Animals
Jan 24, 2014
This ban in the Brazilian state follows a ban from India, Israel and the European Union, as well as debate and potential regulation changes in countries like China.
Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products
Jan 13, 2014
The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.
Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage
Jan 12, 2014
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Liverpool Student Develops Alternative to Draize for Testing Mascara Irritation
Jan 8, 2014
Researchers at the University of Liverpool have developed a testing method alternative to the Draize test for mascara eye irritation using protozoa rather than animals. In addition to the new method not using rabbits, it was found to be cheaper and more reliable.
ICCVAM Requests Info on Skin Sensitization Testing
Nov 20, 2013
The Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) has requested the submission of new science or information on alternative test methods or testing strategies for skin sensitization, as part of a plan of action to advance this area.
Researcher Develops Hydroperoxide Detection Method for Fragrance Allergens
Nov 13, 2013
Research from the University of Gothenburg has led to a potential method for identifying allergenic fragrance compounds in consumer products by exposing them to air.
Anti-wrinkle Claims Substantiation
Nov 1, 2013
Personal care is now dominated by want rather than need, and one facet at the crux of this trend is the taboo word of the century: wrinkles. As with the majority of cosmetic products and claims in the 21st century, product development teams aim to differentiate their products from competitors in one way or another, to create a successful brand and generate profit.
Influence of Pressure During Spreading on UV Transmission Results
Nov 1, 2013
This work evaluates the impact of applied pressure during sample spreading on the in vitro measurement of UV transmission. The authors work in a range of pressures between 50–200 g and demonstrate that pressure control is a key parameter that should be strictly controlled to ensure the reliability of test results.
C + K Introduces Tewameter with Three Probes for Better Efficiency
Oct 23, 2013
Courage + Khazaka has upgraded its well-known TEWL and barrier function measurement device, the Tewameter, with three probe heads for better efficiency.
In Vitro UV Testing—Robot vs. Human Spreading for Repeatable, Reproducible Results
Oct 1, 2013
Repeatability and reproducibility are crucial to validate any test method. In order to master these criteria, the authors developed an automated spreading device and compared it with human spreading. Application of the device in eight laboratories and using 36 sunscreens revealed great improvements via automated spreading, ensuring good intra- and inter-laboratory variability.
In vitro/vivo SPF Correlation and Repeatability According to Substrate
Sep 1, 2013
This work evaluates the impact of three different substrates on in vitro SPF measurements, and defines experimental conditions to improve their correlation with in vivo values. Evaluations of 32 products, shown here, led the authors to conclude that molded substrates improved repeatability and correlation with in vivo SPF values.
Image Processing and Analysis to Evaluate the Effects of Porous Polyamide Microspheres in Cosmetics
Sep 1, 2013
Described here is an image processing system that compensates for changes in illumination and volunteer position, and two algorithms to quantify skin texture and wrinkles. These methods evaluate skin parameters from a single image without contacting skin. Their abilities are demonstrated here in evaluations of the benefits of porous polyamide ultra-fine powders on skin texture and gloss.
Solar Flair
Sep 1, 2013
If like me, you’re just daydreaming of the beach, this collection of articles will enlighten you with its focus on sun protection, SPF testing, damage repair and more.
CeeTox Inches Closer to Validating Non-Animal Skin Allergy Assay
Aug 13, 2013
CeeTox has reported positive results from the recent phase of a PETA-funded validation study performed by the Flemish Institute for Technological Research (VITO)’s Applied BIO & Molecular Systems (ABS) team.
Measuring Hair Strength, Part I: Stress-Strain Curves
Aug 1, 2013
This article is the first in a series that will address the approaches of measuring the “strength” of hair and quantifying the manner by which this property may be altered. Specifically, it will begin with the generation of stress-strain curves through the use of constant rate extension experiments.
Fischer-Tropsch vs. Mineral Products for Moisturization
Jun 1, 2013
Differing amounts of Fischer-Tropsch (FT) wax were used in petroleum jelly and final cosmetic emulsions to evaluate moisturizing effects in skin. FT wax was shown to perform as well or better than traditional mineral-derived products.
Mature and Immature Corneocyte Detection Force Distance Curves vs. Microfluorometry
May 1, 2013
Here, the author compares two methods to determine the maturity of corneocytes based on their cross-linking that could be used to evaluate the anti-aging effects of molecular agents. The first utilizes microfluorometry, while the second involves F-D curves generated via contact mode AFM. Both methods successfully detected differences in mature or immature corneocytes with 95% confidence.
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