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New in Function (page 5 of 51)
Aug 15, 2012 | 11:45 AM CDT
Formula Troubleshooting: Acrylate-based Thickening
By: Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder; and Marie Olla…
Acrylate-based ingredients have been modified over the past decades, and their benefits are increasingly evident in many industries outside of cosmetics, such as paints, coatings, inks, textiles, etc.
Jul 03, 2012 | 03:00 PM CDT
Large-scale Screenings of Botanical Ingredients: Challenges and Opportunities
By: Patricia da Luz Moreira, PhD, Natura Inova&cce…
Botanical ingredients are interesting for their unique and complementary chemical diversities yet they are criticized for these very traits, which make quality assurance, reproducibility and good phytochemical characterization—required for successful high throughput screening, difficult. This article discusses these challenges as well as the benefits of large-scale screenings of botanical extracts that are currently used or developed for cosmetic product development.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:46 PM CDT
From Elastin to Elastic Fibers, Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
By: Philippe Mondon and Ada Andre - Sederma, Franc…
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:39 PM CDT
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Foot Care
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Institute of Skin and Produ…
Many dermatological diseases such as athlete’s foot occur because the feet spend long spans of time in a warm, dark and humid environment. While there are several foot diseases related to diabetes, this column will focus on the development of foot care formulae designed for cosmetic treatments.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:23 PM CDT
A Dermatological View—Exploring Potential Differences in Percutaneous Penetration and Barrier Function Between Individuals of Different Ethnicity or Skin Color
By: Elodie Metral and Howard I. Maibach, MD, Unive…
The current understanding of percutaneous penetration and parameters that can influence it remains a sub judice area. Ethnicity or pigmentation, for instance, can be implied in percutaneous absorption for which several studies, described here, have been conducted to clarify their roles.
Jun 04, 2012 | 03:16 PM CDT
Formulation and Evaluation of Self-tanners
By: S. Peter Foltis, L’Oréal USA, Clark, NJ, USA
Self-tanning preparations are becoming increasingly important for consumers desiring a tanned look without exposing themselves to undue harm. The present article reviews DHA and other self-tanning active ingredients and their mechanisms of action. Formulating hallenges such as stability and ingredient interactions are discussed, as well as the evaluation and regulation of self-tanning products.
Jun 04, 2012 | 03:11 PM CDT
Fragrancing Sun Care Products
By: Jill B. Costa, PhD, Bell Flavors and Fragrance…
Outdoor, indoor and self-tanning products have different usage profiles, thus fragrancing each product type has special considerations with respect to the overall fragrance structure and the types of characters that work best. The present article reviews fragrance structure and discusses specific considerations for each product type to assist formulators in designing successful sun care products.
Jun 04, 2012 | 03:03 PM CDT
The EU Fragrance Allergens
By: David C. Steinberg, Steinberg Consultants
On March 11, 2003, the European Union (EU) published the 7th Amendment to its Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC. Among the changes was the addition of the 26 popular fragrance ingredients to the Annex III “List of Substances Which Cosmetic Products Must Not Contain Except Subject to the Restrictions Laid Down.” These are now commonly referred to as the EU Fragrance Allergens.
May 03, 2012 | 02:42 PM CDT
A Novel Method to Measure and Pre-select Functional Filler Pigments
By: Miriam Becker, Christoph Schmidt, PhD, Veroni…
Functional filler pigments play an important role in adjusting optical properties such as transparency and soft focus effects in cosmetics. However, their suitability for specific formulas is not apparent until time-consuming tests using many different fillers have been conducted. Therefore, a new method to predetermine the soft focus effects of functional filler pigments is described here.
May 03, 2012 | 02:38 PM CDT
Water-based, High-UVA Titanium Dioxide Dispersion for Natural UV Protection and Added Formulation Benefits
By: Alice Miles, Michael Hilditch, Robert M. Sayer…
A novel titanium dioxide (TiO2) showing enhanced UVA protection was previously found to be effective as the sole active ingredient in sun care formulations, achieving levels of UVA protection recommended by the European Commission. Here, a water-based dispersion of the same TiO2 particles is described that offers a high level of UVA protection in sun care products with excellent formulation flexibility.