Formulating Skin Depigmentation Products with Naturals

Apr 1, 2012 | Contact Author | By: Arthur Georgalas
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Title: Formulating Skin Depigmentation Products with Naturals
naturalx pigmentx lighteningx activesx
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Keywords: natural | pigment | lightening | actives

Abstract: The skin care industry strives to formulate products based on nature’s remedies. However, formulators of such products seek more scientific guidance to determine whether a particular natural material measures up to its synthetic counterpart.

Market Data

  • Smoking is a major contributor to skin discoloration, ECM breakdown, deep wrinkling, premature skin aging, poor wound-healing and the formation of abnormal skin growths.
  • Telangiectasias—small, dilated blood vessels near the skin’s surface—are a response to the body's need for more oxygen, stifled by smoking.
  • Exposure to the pollutants present in cigarettes accelerates the degradation of the ECM.
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After having served as a judge at a local science fair last spring, this author brought home a message of the pervasive appeal of natural skin care actives based on a precocious fifth grader’s clinical study titled, “Garlic: Winning the War against Vampires (sic) Zits.” The proposed mechanism of action was that garlic (Allium sativum) exhibits antimicrobial activity. Her home clinical study involved making an extract from garlic bulbs and incorporating it into a cocoa butter-containing body oil, then comparing its effects with those of a commercial benzoyl peroxide cream, minocycline and toothpaste—an interesting mix of positive and negative controls.

While her subject population of one individual per test material requires expansion in any follow-up studies, her enthusiasm in evaluating this natural active was impressive, as was her successful salesmanship in convincing her older sibling to apply the garlic-containing body oil twice daily, as it certainly affected his social life. Further, the results of the garlic treatment, as shown by photos taken over the course of the study, were surprisingly good.

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This content is adapted from an article in GCI Magazine. The original version can be found here.

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Bio: Arthur Georgalas

Arthur Georgalas has conducted formulation work and applied research in various product categories at several leading cosmetic manufacturers, and more recently, established his consultancy, Georgalas Endeavors LLC. Georgalas is an active member of the IFSCC, SCC and NYSCC and has presented at many conferences. As an adjunct professor, he instructs two classes in the cosmetic science master’s program at Fairleigh Dickinson University, and presents courses in botanicals and formulation for the SCC Continuing Education Program. He also serves as a subject matter expert for the recently launched Cosmetics & Toiletries Complete Cosmetic Chemist course, “Developing Natural Cosmetic Formulations.”

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