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Section: Testing > Method/Process
SPF/Sun
[podcast] Sunscreen Innovation Act Update: MUsT Test and Penetration Potential
"What’s changed with respect to sunscreen evaluation is ... the test model they are using now is designed for drugs ...and has never been applied previously for the sunscreens," Epstein reports.
Method/Process
Advanced Methods Measure Skin Penetrants at the Parts-Per-Billion Level: Part II
Part I of this Dermatologic View column appeared in the January issue of
C&T
magazine and described advanced methods to measure skin penetration such as Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry (ICP-MS) and Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry (AAS). Here, the authors continue this investigation of advanced methods to measure skin penetration.
Method/Process
A High Throughput Method to Predict Skin Penetration and Screen Topical Formulations
This work studies the applicability of a 96-well-based skin-mimetic artificial membrane permeability model to differentiate between topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Results are compared with data obtained from in vitro Franz cell permeability measurements and reveal the applicability of this method to assess cosmetic formulation permeation and speed the discovery process.
Method/Process
Fluorescence LSCM to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair
The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.
Method/Process
A Dermatological View: Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In Vivo in Humans
Described here was an in vivo model to determine antioxidative capacity of a topical skin care emulsion versus the emulsion’s vehicle on human skin that was exposed to UVR. Results suggest the test emulsion and its vehicle control inhibited the induction of erythema and reduced inflammation caused by the UV exposure.
Method/Process
Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality
In the present work, the antioxidant capacities of three essential oils derived from basil and thyme were evaluated using a photochemiluminescence (PCL)-based assay. In addition, since the base formulation can affect the antioxidant activity of oils contained therein, ingredient interactions within final formulations were investigated.
Method/Process
Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality
In the present work, the antioxidant capacities of three essential oils derived from basil and thyme were evaluated using a photochemiluminescence (PCL)-based assay. In addition, since the base formulation can affect the antioxidant activity of oils contained therein, ingredient interactions within final formulations were investigated.
Method/Process
A Dermatological View: Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In Vivo in Humans
Described here was an in vivo model to determine antioxidative capacity of a topical skin care emulsion versus the emulsion’s vehicle on human skin that was exposed to UVR. Results suggest the test emulsion and its vehicle control inhibited the induction of erythema and reduced inflammation caused by the UV exposure.
Method/Process
Fluorescence Laser Scanning Confocal Microscopy to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair
The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.
Literature/Data
Safeguarding Squalene: Lemon Myrtle Antioxidant for Pollution Protection and Oleostasis
Squalene becomes easily oxidized when exposed to pollution and UV radiation, which promotes skin inflammation, the production of poor-quality sebum, comedogenesis and wrinkling. Lemon myrtle leaf extract neutralizes squalene oxidation and can protect all ethnic skin types from environmentally induced oily skin, restoring oleostasis.
Method/Process
Stability Testing Guidance for Product Safety and Shelf-life Insight
Routine stability testing provides cosmetic manufacturers critical data about a product’s safety and shelf life. While not required by legislation, these tests can ensure the successful marketing of products. The present paper provides and overview of the basics manufacturers should cover when stability testing products.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Animal Alternatives
ICCVAM Recommends Non-animal Endocrine Disruptor Screening
The Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) has recommended a non-animal test method to identify estrogen agonist and antagonist activity. In addition to recommending the test, ICCVAM also found the method to provide a number of benefits over the method currently employed in the United States.
Literature/Data
VIDEO: Gallagher Notes Innovation, Sustainability, Among Accomplishments
In a recent exclusive interview with C&T, Kevin Gallagher, Croda’s retiring president of personal care/actives, spoke about some of the significant accomplishments of his long career with Croda. See what he talked about with C&T’s Rachel Grabenhofer.
Method/Process
ICCVAM Recommends Ocular Safety Tests for Cosmetics and Other Products
Four test method evaluation reports are now available from ICCVAM that provide recommendations for performing eye safety testing more humanely, and for developing and using non-animal test methods and strategies. Among these reports, ICVAAM has recommended that a cytosensor microphysiometer (CM) test method may be used to screen surfactant-containing formulations such as personal care products for the ability to cause permanent or severe eye injuries.
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