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Type: Article

Section: Testing > Method/Process

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Why the FDA's 'Sunscreens in the Bloodstream' Study is Flawed

A recent study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association tested the potential systemic absorption of certain sunscreens. Results identified their presence in subjects' bloodstreams; however, as industry expert David Steinberg explains, the study is misleading and fails to consider crucial variables.

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Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part I: Personnel, Facilities and Equipment

This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part II will appear in our July 2018 edition.

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Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing

This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.

Adapting Spf Testing Methods For Mineral Sunscreen Density

Adapting SPF Testing Methods for Mineral Sunscreen Density

A sunscreen layer’s thickness is critical to its SPF. However, current regulations specify a mass application rate for testing, rather than a volumetric application rate. This significantly underrates the SPF values of mineral sunscreens due to their higher densities since, compared with their relative organic counterparts, thinner films are being tested, as will be shown here.

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Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet

In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D., Cosmetics & Toiletries learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.

A Laboratory Method for Measuring the Water Resistance of Sunscreens

A new laboratory in vitro method for the measurement of sunscreen water resistance uses spectrophotometric analysis of a model skin substitute before and after 80-minute immersion. It gives good correlation with the FDA’s 80-minute immersion SPF results (very water resistant). The method is especially good for screening new formulations or water-resistant technologies.

Photostability Test for Additional Sunscreen Claims, Part III: New Claim

Proposed here is an in vitro method, based on UV transmission measurements at two irradiation doses, to test and rank sunscreens based on their photostabilities. This approach was used to assess some 107 sunscreens and shows how, by strictly controlling key parameters, comparisons between the photostabilities of products can be made, with potential for new label claims.

Photostability Test for Additional Sunscreen Claims, Part I: Protocol Setup

Proposed here is an in vitro method, based on UV transmission measurements at two irradiation doses, to test and rank sunscreens based on their photostabilities. This approach was used to assess some 107 sunscreens and shows how, by strictly controlling key parameters, comparisons between the photostabilities of products can be made, with potential for new label claims.

'[Sunscreen] developers will be able to innovate more efficiently while maintaining high standards of quality and safety for consumers.'

[update] How ISO's Endorsement of Two Test Methods Will Enlighten Sunscreen Development

After 10 years, sunscreen developers are nearing the finish line for more ethical, cost efficient, reliable and faster testing thanks to ISO's endorsement of two standards. The final vote was in September 2024. Here, two experts explain what this means.

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Sandblasting to Improve the Reproducibility of In vitro Sunscreen Evaluation

SPF test results from substrates treated using a traditional sandblasting technique are compared with those from substrates treated using a new process. Based on the topographic control of 10 batches and 34 sunscreen evaluations, the authors concluded the new process had better topographic reproducibility, consequently improving the SPF repeatability and reproducibility in vitro.

Photostability Test for Additional Sunscreen Claims, Part II: Calculations and Results

Proposed here is an in vitro method, based on UV transmission measurements at two irradiation doses, to test and rank sunscreens based on their photostabilities. This approach was used to assess some 107 sunscreens and shows how, by strictly controlling key parameters, comparisons between the photostabilities of products can be made, with potential for new label claims.

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Are Your Sunscreens Infra-ready? New In vitro Method Puts Data Behind the Claims

Considering more and more sun care products are claiming infrared (IR) protection, it is important to standardize the parameters by which they are evaluated. Since IR-A and IR-B are the most implicated in skin damage, a test method was developed based on these wavelengths, as described here.

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Good As Gold: Validating Alternative SPF Test Methods

This article presents alternative sunscreen test methods to the gold standard ISO 24444:2019. Options range from in vivo calibrated in silico tools and in vitro plate procedures, to a hybrid method. This discussion highlights their potential and procedures for their validation with the aim of replacing the current standard.

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