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Psychodermatology: Believing is Seeing

Psychodermatology is the study of how the mind and body interact in relation to the onset and progression of various skin disorders. It also examines psychoneuroimmunology (PNI)—the way one’s mental state affects the immune system and hormones, in turn affecting the skin.

Engineering Super Ingredients

Although some debate exists regarding the safety of genetically modified organisms (GMO), there is no doubt that genetic modification has allowed a number of industries to design crops and other resources with new features or added benefits.

Fishing for Answers to Alopecia

Men seeking treatment for pattern baldness, a form of androgenic alopecia, often are confronted with both topical preparations and oral supplements. Murphy believes his company’s oral food supplement addresses hair loss both naturally and effectively-via fish.

Assessing Use of Gold Nanoparticles

Gold nanoparticles have a wealth of pharmaceutical and medical uses. Notably, the ability of these nanoparticles to absorb light and turn this light into heat has put them at the center of ongoing cancer studies exploring their efficacy in destroying malignant cells.

Literature Review—Terahertz Repair, Notch Signaling and Hydrangea

Following is a sampling of recent scientific literature as assembled by Rachel Grabenhofer, editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries, which was found to have potential impact on personal care.

Spin-coated Layers for Nano Film Strength

Daeyeon Lee, PhD, and Jacob Prosser, along with fellow researchers from the University of Pennsylvania, were investigating the manipulation of nanoparticle films through spin-coating conditions when they discovered a method to prevent cracks in films for solar cell coatings, and possibly for cosmetics.

Technology Transfer—Silencing RNA for Cosmetic Effects

RNA interference (RNAi) is a gene-silencing technique that inhibits gene expression by causing the intracellular degradation of mRNA molecules. Since first reported in 1998, RNAi has sparked a revolution in molecular biology and has been employed in a myriad of biological contexts for the systematic evaluation of gene function.

Literature Review—Oxidation, Microdevices and Butterfly Pigments

Cosmetics R&D is constantly inspired by peripheral fields. This new “Literature Review” column therefore gives readers an overview of emerging technologies with potential for use in personal care. It will rotate monthly with the regular “In Sight” column.

Past Impressions

As the year winds down and we settle in for our long winter’s nap, or summer fun, depending on your latitude, I think it’s important to reflect on where you’ve been to know where you’re going. Happy holidays to all!

Maurice Elphick, PhD

Sea Cucumber Peptides to Affect Collagen

Sea cucumbers, considered a delicacy in East and Southeast Asia, may not be pleasing to the eye but could be pleasing to the complexion. These slippery creatures belong to the animal group of echinoderms, which possess an adaptive feature called mutable connective tissue. While investigating this phenomenon, Maurice Elphick, PhD, and his research team from Queen Mary University of London’s School of Biological and Chemical Sciences not only identified the genes that encode the peptides to make this tissue stiffen and soften, but also have hypothesized that one of these peptides may be used in anti-aging skin care

Cosmogizmoceuticals: The Physics and Chemistry of Looking Better

This article presents skin optics and strategies to design cosmetics that more closely match normal human skin. Topics covered include the spectral reflectance of hemoglobin chromophores, spatial variations and color texture, and optical scattering and translucence. In addition, interference coatings are considered, as are examples of the interplay between home-use devices and agents that affect aging skin.

Francesca Giampieri, center, is a doctoral student at the Università Politecnica delle Marche’s department of odontostomatologic and specialized clinical sciences. She conducted the research with fellow students Luca Mazzoni, left, and José Miguel Alvarez Suarez, right.

In Sight—UVA Protection Through Strawberry Anthocyanins

Scientists at the Università Politecnica delle Marche, The University of Barcelona, the University of Salamanca and the University of Granada have produced an extract of strawberry to quantify the ability of the fruit to protect the skin.

Technology Transfer—Just Click It: New Chemical Reactions for Cosmetic Applications

Cosmetics & Toiletries is pleased to revive its former “Technology Transfer” column with new columnists Steven Isaacman, PhD, and Michael Isaacman. The authors’ diverse expertise in physical organic and polymer chemistry will provide a perspective of emerging technologies from academia and beyond, to explore their practical application in the personal care industry. This column follows the Cosmetics & Toiletries mission to combine insightful overviews of relevant cutting-edge thinking with content focused on practical applications in cosmetic science.

Light-triggered Controlled Release

Researchers at University of California at Santa Cruz have taken a new approach for removing drug-resistant bacteria from wounds and skin infections: using light to trigger the controlled release of nitric oxide.

CT1204_InSight

Theobromine for Tooth Decay Prevention

While it may help to protect teeth from decay, fluoride at high levels also has been reported to irritate the gastrointestinal tract and some manufacturers have formulated products without it. However, toothpastes without fluoride are not providing any real benefit beyond cleansing, says Arman Sadeghpour, PhD, who, by chance, stumbled across another raw material that exhibits better anti-cavity efficacy than fluoride without adverse health effects.

History, Characteristics and Application of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Cosmetics

Cosmetics based on traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) are formulated not only using TCM drugs, but also according to cultural theories and principles. This article serves as a review of TCM drug ingredients, history and principles, to assist product developers in understanding how they can be combined for products targeted to this specialized market.

Booths lured attendees with new active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), specialty polymers, greener synthesis processes, catalysts, coatings, amino acids, outsourcing services and more.

Fishing for Ideas at Informex USA 2012

At first, this cosmetics R&D trade journal editor felt like a fish out of water at the Informex USA specialty chemicals exhibition. However, some novel nibbles and a few big catches were made there for personal care R&D.

Patent Picks—Effervescent Surfactants, Vegetal Thickeners, Controlled Delivery and More

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to sensory attributes in hair and skin care.