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Color Cosmetics
Delivering High Moisturization from Lipstick
To improve the appearance of dry and wrinkled lips, it is necessary to hydrate them. Here, the author describes a lipstick concept to meet this need and a formulation process to achieve it. The product was then tested for immediate and long-lasting moisturization using a corneometer, and a quantitative study was conducted to rate its usability.
Literature/Data
The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*
Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).
Literature/Data
Corneocare and Comfort Science
At the Skin Forum 2013 event in London, the seven pillars of “corneocare,” were introduced, which targeted: the epidermal tissue at the molecular, cellular and structural level; epidermal function; tactile experience; appearance and sensation. This is one of the first concepts in personal care to close the gap between consumer perception and a scientific approach.
Color Cosmetics
Delivering High Moisturization from Lipstick
To improve the appearance of dry and wrinkled lips, it is necessary to hydrate them. Here, the author describes a lipstick concept to meet this need and a formulation process to achieve it. The product was then tested for immediate and long-lasting moisturization using a corneometer, and a quantitative study was conducted to rate its usability.
Moisturizing
Testing Polysilicone-19 for Hair Conditioning and UV Protection Claims
Polysilicone-19, a new cationic siloxane copolymer for rinse-off shampoos and conditioners, is shown here to protect dyed hair against UV fading and damage and to provide a conditioning effect.
Companies
Oat Cosmetics Publishes Study Confirming Colloidal Oat Benefits
Oat Cosmetics has released long-term clinical trial results on their range of optimized extruded colloidal oatmeal, Oat COM. The results show that even at a small inclusion rate of 3%, this colloidal oatmeal displays rapid and sustained anti-aging effects.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Pseudolipids, Binding Peptides, Active Sponges, Preserving Functionality and More in Skin Care
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors and taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions related to skin care and moisturization.
Companies
Beraca and L’Oréal Expand Murumuru Hair Care Line and Tout Butter's Benefits
After success in Brazil, L’Oréal has announced plants to take its L’Oréal Professionnel Absolut Control range, which uses murumuru butter manufactured by Beraca, to new markets and to expand with an additional product.
Moisturizing
Grant Addresses Chapped Winter Skin with Intense Hydration Series
Grant Industries will be presenting its Intense Hydration Series at the California chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists' Suppliers' Day (CaliSCC).
Cosmetic Ingredients
Saccharide Isomerate to Deeply Hydrate Skin and Scalp
Saccharide isomerate, designed to closely resemble a carbohydrate complex found in human stratum corneum, is shown here to provide up to 72 hr of deep hydration to skin and, for the first time, rinse-off soothing to the scalp. Its unique binding mechanism to skin and scalp create new opportunities for leave-on and rinse-off products.
Moisturizing
Xiameter Introduces Paraben-free Silicone Hair Conditioner
Dow Corning has added a paraben-free silicone emulsion for hair conditioning to its Xiameter brand offerings.
Moisturizing
Evidence for Moisturizer Efficacy
Moisturizers are used on all skin types to address a range of skin issues/needs. Main uses include: prevention in normal and dry skin, healing of irritated skin and treatment of diseased skin. It is difficult to clinically study the efficacy of moisturizers in a meaningful way.
Moisturizing
Polyquaternium-74: An Advanced Hair Conditioning Polymer
Polyquaternium-74 is a synthetic high performance conditioning polymer whose flocculation and deposition characteristics enable it to match or outperform traditional conditioning polymers in detangling, overall hair conditioning, shine enhancement and buildup reduction when combined, as shown here, with a submicron dimethicone emulsion. Benefits are noted for 2-in-1 shampoo formulations.
Actives
Grapefruit Extract Cream: Effects on Melanin in Skin
The current work aimed to formulate a stable w/o emulsion containing grapefruit extract by entrapping the extract in the inner aqueous phase. The final formula was found to have skin-whitening, moisturizing, cleansing and antiwrinkle effects, among others.
Moisturizing
A Micro-wax Dispersion to Condition Hair and Reduce Breakage
Here, a micro-wax dispersion is shown to provide conditioning and anti-hair breakage properties. The authors incorporated the material into test shampoos, compared them with two silicone-based benchmarks, and found the micro-wax shampoos provided comparable conditioning and improved hair breakage prevention performance. Results were confirmed in a hair washing test.
Methods/Tools
Correlating Water Contact Angles and Moisturization/Sensory Claims
While staff that normally writes the Bench & Beyond column is taking some time off, this space offers an article by Olga V. Dueva-Koganov, B. Scott Jaynes, Colleen Rocafort, Shaun Barker and Jianwen Mao at Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corporation in Tarrytown, N.Y., USA.
Hair Care
Read the Label Online: L'Oréal EverCurl Sculpt & Hold Cream-Gel
L’Oréal EverCurl Scupt & Hold Cream-Gel combines a rich, hydrating cream that conditions with a styling gel that shapes and holds curls without weighing hair down.
Consumers/Market
Hair Care Verging on a New World Order
Hair care saw its best performance in a decade last year, but markets shifts, increased segmentation and niche categories are making the development of growth for hair care a moving target.
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