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Cleansing
Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate for Sulfate-free Formulations
The use of sulfonated alkyl polyglucosides (SAPG) to replace lauryl sulfates and lauryl ether sulfates in sulfate-free formulations has previously been discussed. These primary surfactants were created with environmental and human safety in mind. The current paper describes more recent work with this material, specifically focusing on the lauryl version of SAPG.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Emulsifier Derived From Rapeseed
At In-cosmetics in Milan, Dr. Straetmans GmbH will launch a glyceryl stearate citrate emulsifier derived from rapeseed oil rather than palm oil.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: CMC vs. RF50
Industry expert Tony O'Lenick refers to his son and polymer scientist at the University of Tennessee, Thomas O'Lenick, to explain the difference between critical micelle concentration and reduction factor 50% (RF50) with regard to measuring silicone surfactant effectiveness.
Cleansing
A Brief Review of Polymer/Surfactant Interaction
In this article, the significance of parameters such as correlation length (blob size), micelle structure, comicellization, polymer adsorption conformation and coacervate structure are introduced with relevance to the conceptual appreciation of polymer-surfactant interactions and its bearing on recent advances in conditioning shampoos.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: Wetting vs. Superwetting
In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses the terms
wetting
and
superwetting
in relation to the ability of a surfactant to wet a substrate.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: Trisiloxane vs. Dimethicone Copolyol
In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains the difference in stability between dimethicone copolyols and trisiloxane, a class of dimethicone copolyols.
Methods/Tools
Syntopix Backed in Microemulsion Surfactant Challenge
Syntopix Group Plc has secured backing from Intelligent Formulation Ltd. for a 30-day international research challenge. Over the month-long project, Syntopix will work with world experts to characterize microemulsions made from environmentally friendly surfactants, especially those used to make skin care.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Antimicrobials, Cleansers, Fragrance/Malodor and Delivery
This edition of "Patent Picks" features recently issued patents relevant to cosmetic product development, from antimicrobial compositions and ceramide emulsions, to foaming alcohol, fragrances and cysteine to counteract malodor, among others.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Cosmetic Cornucopia: Antioxidants, Formulating Aids, Firethorn Skin Lightening and More
This special edition of "Patent Picks" features a cornucopia of recently issued patents relevant to cosmetic product development; from water-dispersible cellulose thickeners and polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) polyketide synthase systems, to odorant receptor modulators.
Tech Transfer
Comparatively Speaking: Simple Salt vs. Ionic Liquid
Unlike common salts, ionic liquids are salts in which the ions are poorly coordinated, resulting in molecules that are liquid below 100°C. The use of ionic liquids will aid the formulator in improving delivery efficiency.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Hair and Eyelash Growth, Fixatives, Surfactants and More
Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
magazine editor, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features recently issued patents relevant to hair care, styling and growth.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: Amphiphilic vs. Ionic Amphiphilic Molecule
Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between amphiphilic and ionic amphiphilic molecules, the interactions of which may help formulators to maximize the effectiveness of formulations.
Hair Care
Structured Surfactant Systems for High Performance Shampoos
Specialized surfactant systems that form multilamellar vesicles can be used to design high performance shampoos that outperform micellar formulas. These materials combine with and stabilize actives ranging from molecular to particulate, liquid to solid, and hydrophobic or cationic, to deliver them equally to damaged and virgin regions of hair to act where they are needed most.
Moisturizing
Conditioning Polymers, Surfactants Lead US Personal Care Ingredient Growth
Conditioning polymers lead the way in the US personal care ingredients market, which is forecasted by Kline & Company to grow at an annual rate of 2.2% through 2014.
Natural/Sustainable
Eco-friendly Ingredients to Lead the Industry's Recovery
According to a recent report by Kline and Company, the European personal care ingredients market will recover quickly, with eco-friendly ingredients as well as specialty surfactants, conditioning polymers and emollients leading the way.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Coconut-derived Hydrotropes for Natural Cosmetics
Colonial Chemical Inc. has launched two vegetable-derived replacements for petroleum-based hydrotropes to formulate natural personal care products.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Silicone Anionics and Cationics vs. Soft Complex for Hair Care
The presence of ionic groups affects silicone in an analogous way to how ionic groups affect fatty surfactants. Here, Tony O'Lenick explains how molecular modifications to silicones can result in ionic complexes that are soluble in water and compatible with each other.
Methods/Tools
Comparatively Speaking: Lowering Surface Tension in Water vs. Oil
Industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses the differences between lowering surface tension in water vs. oil phases, noting that formulators should consider surface tension and its role when choosing ingredients for either phase.
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