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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers on 'Naturals'

In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late Johann challenges us to question the concept of natural, as its meaning has become distorted.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Without Penetration, No Delivery

This somewhat tongue-in-cheek edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series offers insight to improve the efficacy of actives.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers on 'Shaken, Not Stirred' Cosmetics R&D

In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author encourages the industry to put more energy into products; i.e., "shaking, not stirring" them, for more innovative outcomes.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: A Smelly Business

In this month's "Words from Wiechers" series, we focus on cosmetic regulation, risk/benefit analysis and public education as exemplified through the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetic Directive and the mandate for fragrance allergen disclosures on product labels.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Sustainability Yes, But of What?

How well has our industry adopted sustainability? Find out what Tony O'Lenick and the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., think in this edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: The Term Cosmeceuticals is No Longer Sustainable

"We really cannot differentiate between a cosmetic and a drug if we accept the fact that a claim made for the product can determine to which category it belongs," Wiechers criticizes, in this "Words from Wiechers."

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .

In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: High-resolution Resolutions

As we use terms that have scientific meaning, marketing meaning and common meaning, we will always be confused as to which meaning is in use. Read on to see what O'Lenick and Wiechers have to say about this.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Perception of Reality or Reality of Perception?

"Suppliers promise quite a lot to their customers," Wiechers tells us. "And [manufacturers] love to insist on more...This attitude promotes a shift from reality to perception." Read on to learn this month's lesson from Wiechers.

Dispelling the 'Law of Wiechers' and Maximizing Actives Delivery

Jonathan Hadgraft, PhD, named "The Law of Wiechers in Cosmetics" after his friend and colleague. This law argues that all actives should be formulated at 3% for maximum delivery, which Wiechers recently discussed in honor of Hadgrafts's 60th birthday.

Lab Lessons—Wise Words From the Bench with Anthony Vargas

Vargas entered the cosmetics industry like many others—by chance, when he answered a newspaper advertisement for a laboratory technician position at Avon in 1979. Although he did not know anything about cosmetics at the time, he took the utmost care in researching his ingredients, which led to the launch of a number of successful products and honed his keen eye for technologies.

Jean-Jaques Étienne, PhD

Wise Words from the Bench with Jean-Jaques Étienne, PhD

Some might consider olfaction solely the job of perfumers, but Jean-Jaques Étienne, PhD, believes it to be the job of perfumers as well as formulators.

There are many soft spots in cosmetic science, i.e., the feel of a product, the pleasure of using a cosmetic product...

[update] Comparatively Speaking: Matter vs. Mind Claims

This "Comparatively Speaking" was revived from 2008 for its relevance today. In it, Tony O’Lenick posed the question: What’s the difference between a "mind" claim and a "matter" claim? Industry expert Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., explained.

Compass: The Shape of Words to Come

This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine focuses on treatments incorporating such actives in preventive skin care, antiaging treatments, and anticellulite and spa treatments.

Much Ado About Nothing: Cosmetics Testing with a Placebo

In this column, the author investigates the source of the placebo effect. In addition, he asks the question: Must cosmetics testing always incorporate tests against a placebo?

Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH

Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.

Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH

Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.

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