At in-cosmetics Asia, Naturex debuted its new line of natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) for the skin as part of its Natural Radiance collection of synergistic brightening ingredients.
AHAs are well known in the skin care industry to eliminate dead cells, stimulate cell renewal, enhance skin organization and improve skin hydration. They also act as antioxidant scavengers and protect the skin from oxidative damage. However, natural AHAs are typically only available at relatively low concentrations. Therefore, Naturex designed extracts of hibiscus (rich in specific hibiscus acids) and cranberry (rich in citric, quinic and malic acids) with concentrations in AHAs ranging from 7 to 45%.
According to Naturex, the number of new skin care products launched with a radiance claim has grown six times in the last 10 years. Moreover, more than half of the product launches targeting perfect skin complexion carried a “natural” claim in 2013.
These natural AHAs have been developed in various grades to suit formulation needs. Available are the following AHAs with varying organic acid content: Hibiscus LG, > 10%; Hibiscus PE, > 45%; Cranberry LG, > 7%; Cranberry Juice, > 18%; and Cranberry PE, > 30%.
Special attention has been paid to facilitate the use of AHAs in different formulations. Derived from anthocyanin-rich hibiscus flowers or cranberry fruits, the organic acids were originally colored in vivid red. Naturex has worked to separate the anthocyanin from the organic acids to adapt them for cosmetic use. The powder and liquid versions of the cranberry and hibiscus AHAs have no impact on the color of the finished product. Also, natural organic acids are easily soluble in water. This property presents a significant advantage in terms of formulation, avoiding any crystallization or precipitation in the formula. Thanks to their high solubility, natural organic acids have superior activity and improved bioavailability on the skin.
The Natural Radiance collection also includes Lemon Balm, Rhodiola and Licorice Glabra to even skin tone and Licorice Uralensis and Schizandra to reduce and control inflammation.