Research reported in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology revealed the efficacy of a foam containing nicotinic acid hexyl ester, polyphenols, zinc, glycine and caffeine in comparison with a vehicle control foam in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled, six-month study in men (n = 62) with adrogenic alopecia.
As the paper explains, hexyl nicotinate has been shown to enhance cutaneous blood flow while caffeine demonstrates an inhibitory effect on phosphodiesterase, in turn increasing cAMP levels. Together, they are believed to stimulate the proliferation of hair follicles.
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Further, the polyphenols dihydroquercetin-glycoside (DHQG) and epigallocatechingallate-glucoside (EGCG2) are said to stimulate the metabolism of human fibroblast dermal papilla cells, proliferation and anti-apoptotic effect of the outer root sheath cells. They also activate the Wnt/β-catenin pathway. Combined with glycine, a constituent of the hair protein, and zinc—key to the incorporation of cysteine into the keratin, the polyphenols were previously shown to stimulate hair growth both in vitro and in vivo.
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Here, the safety and efficacy of a shampoo and lotion utilizing a nanoencapsulate comprising these materials was evaluated in comparison with a vehicle control foam. Sixty-two men applied the products twice daily for six months. Phototrichograms and clinical ratings by a dermatologist, along with standardized questionnaires, revealed the foam reduced the telogen rate in men affected by androgenic alopecia, indicating a potential cosmetic intervention for the treatment of male pattern hair loss.
See the full open access paper for details.