Natural makeup has been gaining popularity in Europe over the past few years, and other territories are following the trend.
While natural alternatives are available in the ingredient market, it is not as easy to combine naturality, sensoriality and performance. This is an equation that lipid chemistry can certainly solve successfully.
More than just a formulation kit, Color Pulse – featuring 13 diverse makeup formulas – is an opportunity to share Gattefossé teams’ knowledge on how to formulate natural makeup.
Pigment Wetting is Crucial
Central to makeup formulas, pigments are not just powders that bring color. To unlock their potential, they must be perfectly wetted. Optimal pigment wetting ensures more than good coverage and color intensity. By optimizing it, sensory and physical variations between shades will be decreased. Designed for its pigment affinity, Emulium® Illustro – a natural origin W/O emulsifier – was key in the Color Pulse formulations to establish consistent properties from light to dark shades, and from nude to vivid red shades. Used at 0.5-1% in the pigment phase, it ensures optimal wetting and decreases the quantity of emollient needed by up to 20%.
Emollient Selection: A Must for Stability
While each emollient has its own sensorial properties, it is important to pay attention to their polarity. Indeed, each emulsifier has its own affinity, and this parameter is central in W/O emulsions, which are challenging to stabilize. To deliver the best advice, this video shows the impact of emollient selection, and how to choose the best options with Emulium® Illustro.
Emollient selection is not only important in emulsions, but also in stick formulas. Emollient and wax compatibility needs to be checked to avoid any instability such as sweating and crystallization. In the Iconic Satin Lipstick, ingredient selection was optimized, and melting point cascade was well established. Lipocire™ A SG and Acticire® MB also help with this parameter thanks to their melting points between oil and wax.
Active Ingredients Addition: A Challenge?
As skinification of makeup is no longer a trend but a real must-have, a new challenge appears: how to add active ingredients in complex makeup formulas.
First, selecting a lipo-soluble active ingredient can decrease interaction: Eyeglorius™, Gattefossé’s latest bioactive, makes formulators' work easier by being heat resistant and lipophilic. It decreases eye contour signs of fatigue while being directly added to the main oil phase.
Most of the active ingredients on the market are aqueous while many makeup formulas, such as lipsticks, are anhydrous. A way to add them easily in formulas is to use 5% of Acticire® MB, enabling the addition of 2% aqueous ingredient in anhydrous sticks.
Lean more about Gattefossé’s Color Pulse collection here: https://www.gattefosse.com/news/color-pulse-new-makeup-collection
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