Isosorbide Dicaprylate: A Modulator of Biochemical Pathways Linked to Water and Barrier Homeostasis


Water can be considered the “solvent of life”—without water, there is no life. Water homeostasis in the epidermis is essential for the normal function of the skin and for normal stratum corneum (SC) hydration. The discovery of the existence of the water-transporting protein aquaglyceroporin-3 (AQP3) in the viable epidermis and the presence of tight junction structures at the junction between the stratum granulosum and SC have brought new insights into the mechanisms of skin hydration, water distribution and barrier function.

HydraSynol DOI (INCI: Isosorbide Dicaprylate) was found to up-regulate AQP3 and several key tight-junction genes significantly, as evident from a DNA micorarray study using full thickness epidermis tissue substitutes. This was further confirmed by quantitative PCR and immune histochemistry. The product was also found to modulate desmosome and epidermal differentiation genes; and, more specifically, E-Cadherin, a marker of skin homeostasis.

Skin hydration before and after the treatment with HydraSynol DOI showed 125% improvement for dry skin, and 35% improvement for normal skin. The product also works synergistically with glycerol in improving skin hydration. The beneficial effects of the ingredient observed in the clinical case studies can at least be partially be explained by the up-regulation of glycerol/water channel AQP3 and tight junctions, the decrease of which is associated with a defective osmotic equilibrium in the epidermis and dryness of chronically aged and photo-aged skin.

Key Features of HydraSynol DOI

  • Well-defined compound
  • Cosmetically elegant and environmentally friendly
  • Suitable for sensitive skin with high tolerance
  • Excellent solubilizer for hydrophobic materials
  • ECOCERT-certified

What HydraSynol DOI Does (see Figure 1)

  • Helps transport moisture where it is needed for the best results
  • Supports in restoring skin’s natural moisture-retention mechanisms
  • Brings back skin homeostasis by stimulating E-Cadherin
  • Makes skin smooth and supple with long-lasting and controlled skin hydration


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