Why are Dermatologists Recommending Azelaic Acid? It’s the Unsung Hero!

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The Unsung Hero of Cosmetic Acids

Cosmetic acids continue to increase in popularity by serving as the main active ingredient or ingredients that support overall product formulation. Acids offer versatility in formulation and can provide gentle exfoliation, brightening, help fight acne and more. Azelaic acid is a favorite of dermatologists and is growing in demand with consumers for its effectiveness and gentleness for all skin types.

Acme-Hardesty’s Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid is a multifunctional skin care superstar that tackles an abundance of skin concerns. In fact, formulas containing concentrations of 10% azelaic acid or less can improve visible imperfections in the skin, brighten dull and uneven skin tone and provide powerful anti-aging benefits. While properly formulating with Azelaic Acid can sometimes be tricky, pre-solubilization of this ingredient in an organic phase such as glycerine, can alleviate issues by improving solubility in the final product and help in avoiding a grainy texture.

An Underrated Acid for Your Best Skin

Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid is a dicarboxylic acid that has antibacterial, keratolytic, comedolytic and antioxidant activity that is gaining momentum in the personal care space. Its uniqueness and admiration secured azelaic acid its “A” spot in Acme-Hardesty’s recent video series, The ABCs of Beauty. Potentially even more impressive, Acme-Hardesty’s Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid is derived from sunflower oil using an innovative proprietary process that is radically different from existing technologies. The unique production method utilizes bio-based, green chemistry to produce sustainable Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid with a high purity of 99% and with low environmental impact.

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Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid is keratolytic, meaning it works deep within pores to gently exfoliate skin and remove dead cells to improve lackluster appearance. Azelaic Acid’s anti-bacterial properties help fight acne-causing bacteria to keep breakouts at bay. It can also fade acne scars and some other forms of hyperpigmentation as it can reduce melanin production in hyperactive areas. Since Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid is also comedolytic, it helps to keep future blackheads and whiteheads from forming on the skin and is a great natural alternative to salicylic acid. Its anti-inflammatory properties help soothe the skin and calm rosacea. Azelaic Acid has also been shown to increase cell turnover, making it an excellent anti-aging ingredient.

Mechanisms of Action:

  • Fights acne and unclogs pores.
  • Deeply exfoliates.
  • Is safe for all skin types.
  • Increase in keratinocyte differentiation.
  • Inhibition of hyperkeratinization and hyperpigmentation.
  • Stimulation of hair growth in conjunction with zinc ions.
  • Inhibition of tyrosinase.
  • Offers antimicrobial properties.
  • Inhibits UV-induced oxidation.
  • Pairs well with alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids (particularly salicylic acid), retinol and niacinamide.

Clinical Study Data

To determine the irritation and sensitization potential of Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid, occlusive and semi-occlusive human repeat insult patch tests were conducted. Each study contained 55 participants with Type III Fitzpatrick classification. No adverse reactions of any kind were reported during either study. *Full test results are available upon request.

Formulation Guidelines

Matrilox CA001M Azelaic Acid requires care when handling at the time of manufacturing. It is best to eliminate direct association of azelaic acid with water as it demonstrates poor water solubility. Azelaic Acid is soluble in the presence of ether, acetates and alcohols. Heating is required to ensure solubilization.

Finished product formulators are facing more challenges than ever before as consumers continue to expect high performing products with clean, sustainable and efficacious ingredients. Through the rethinking of ways to use both natural ingredients, combined with sustainable synthetics, formulators can deliver consumers the best of both clean and clinical skin care, embracing “cleanical” beauty. Watch our webinar, The Rise of Cleanical Beauty, to discover more ingredients, like azelaic acid, that fit the cleanical beauty trend.


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