Croda Beauty Actives introduces DS-HydroCeramide50 and 50S, bio-fermentation-derived skin-identical ceramide NP ingredients from the company's SphingoCare range.
According to the company, DS-HydroCeramide50 and 50S (INCI: Ceramide NP (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin) represent significant advancements for rinse-off applications, addressing the challenge of incorporating ceramides into gentle cleansers and body washes while maintaining product stability.
Enhancing Bioavailability
The ingredients employ a water-dispersible solid lipid particle technology to overcome traditional ceramide formulation limitations. As Croda explains, this vectorization system enables controlled, continuous ceramide delivery into the epidermis while operating at incorporation temperatures below 50°C.
DS-HydroCeramide50 is a water-dispersible form of oleic acid moiety ceramide NP while DS-HydroCeramide50S a water dispersible form of stearic acid moiety ceramide NP. The technologies thereby simplify formulation processes compared to conventional pure ceramide applications, per the company.
In addition, the company underscores the ingredients' ability to boost skin ceramide neo-synthesis, providing a dual action and ensuring prolonged efficacy.
Validating Clinical Performance
Image courtesy of Croda Beauty Actives
Immediate Hydration Effects
Clinical testing revealed DS-HydroCeramide50 increased skin moisture by +13.4% versus the placebo within two hours post-application, even at low usage concentrations, the company reports. Surface texture improvements also showed a +13% increase in aspect score compared to water cleansing alone.
Enhanced Skin Penetration
Skin permeation studies demonstrated DS-HydroCeramide50 achieved +93.7% increased ceramide penetration versus control, significantly outperforming non-vectorized ceramide NP at +56.1%, the company highlights.
Long-term Barrier Function
Finally, a 14-day study following a barrier disruption simulation showed the ingredient reduced transepidermal water loss by 27%, indicating enhanced barrier reinforcement capabilities.
Measuring Neurological Response
In addition, electroencephalogram evaluation of the effects of DS-HydroCeramide50 formulated in light cream demonstrated a positive influence on comfort and pampering sensations in test subjects versus placebo controls, the company reports.
Aligning with Regulatory and Sustainability Specs
Croda Beauty Actives Highlights its DS-HydroCeramide50 meets 100% natural-origin content requirements per ISO16128 standards. The ingredient also reportedly maintains vegan suitability and holds RSPO, Natrue and COSMOS approvals. IECIC listing additionally ensures regulatory compliance across multiple markets.
