Consumers are increasingly seeking innovative solutions to combat hair damage from heat, chemicals, UV and environmental stressors. This demand is driving new advancements in ingredient technology, with a focus on deep repair, strengthening and overall scalp health. Leading the charge are new offerings like DSM-Firmenich's Bond Aid with OXY 229 CB, Active Concepts' AC Curezyme and Primient Covation's microbiome-friendly Zemea propanediol, all designed to restore hair's integrity and vitality from root to tip.
Log in to view the full article
Consumers are increasingly seeking innovative solutions to combat hair damage from heat, chemicals, UV and environmental stressors. This demand is driving new advancements in ingredient technology, with a focus on deep repair, strengthening and overall scalp health. Leading the charge are new offerings like DSM-Firmenich's Bond Aid with OXY 229 CB, Active Concepts' AC Curezyme and Primient Covation's microbiome-friendly Zemea propanediol, all designed to restore hair's integrity and vitality from root to tip.
Meet the New Bond Builders
Consumers increasingly seek out products to counteract hair damage resulting from heat styling, chemical treatments, UV exposure and environmental pollutants.
"Hair is under constant attack from everything your body is exposed to—sun, pollution, diet, sleep and stress," says Fabrice Guillemard, director of marketing for beauty and care at DSM-Firmenich.
The company’s new Bond Aid with OXY 229 CB is powered by a biotech-derived peptide complex and reportedly visibly restores hair’s structural integrity and vitality. Bond Aid with OXY 229 CB offers a triple-action approach, according to its manufacturer. It supports keratin binding, actively strengthening the hair fiber from within, and scalp oxygenation, enhancing scalp vitality and fostering an optimal environment for healthy hair growth.
The OXY 229 CB complex contains more than 700 peptides. Molecular modeling of a subset of 19 of these peptides revealed the ingredient's novel ability to bind with keratin, targeting the interior of hair fibers and enabling multi-dimensional structural repair, the company reports.
Key performance data demonstrated:
- Up to 22% improvement in hair tensile strength after a single use at 1%,
- A 22% increase in combability, indicating enhanced smoothness,
- A 750% increase in scalp oxygen uptake in vitro, and
- A 10% boost in cell viability in vitro, supporting a healthier scalp.
Designed for seamless integration into both leave-on and rinse-off applications, Bond Aid with OXY 229 CB demonstrates high efficacy at a minimal 1% concentration, according to the manufacturer.
In line with clean beauty principles, Bond Aid with OXY 229 CB is derived from a natural and sustainable yeast extract. The ingredient is 98.17% of natural origin (ISO 16128), readily biodegradable (OECD test), halal-certified and produced without palm-oil derivatives, the company reports.
Meanwhile, Active Concepts has launched AC Curezyme (INCI: Vegetable Protein Keratinoligase), an ingredient combining quaternization and bond-building. This hybrid bridges the gap between classic conditioning and advanced bond repair, elevating both performance and sustainability, per the manufacturer.
AC Curezyme is powered by the company's Curamina ingredient (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Transglutaminase), a biomimetic active that mimics an enzyme naturally found in skin and hair follicles to create essential peptide bonds. Paired with AC hydrolyzed vegetable protein PF, a plant-based and sustainable alternative to keratin, the ingredient is said to leverage an optimized enzyme-to-protein ratio.
As the company explains, through Curamina's unique mechanism of forming covalent peptide bonds, and AC hydrolyzed vegetable protein PF's hydrolyzed corn, wheat and soy protein anchoring, AC Curezyme mimics the natural cross-linking of healthy, undamaged hair. This targeted, science-backed approach rebuilds and fortifies hair structure, enhancing tensile strength, elasticity and resilience.
Together, these components seal and strengthen the hair fiber as well as deliver a weightless, deeply nourishing and environmentally mindful solution—aligning with the needs of consumers entering the post-quat era, the company reports.
In addition, unlike conventional quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) that coat the hair's surface, AC Curezyme is designed to work on a molecular level, penetrating the hair fiber to deliver bioactive repair, providing lasting hydration and frizz control.
AC Curezyme offers benefits such as bioactive repair that rebuilds the hair’s internal protein matrix for genuine strength and resilience, reportedly surpassing typical conditioning. Its smart protein technology ensures weightless strength by using low molecular weight hydrolyzed proteins that absorb deeply, improving elasticity for all hair types without buildup. Moreover, it stands out as a sustainable, plant-based innovation, aligning with the demand for clean and effective beauty solutions over synthetic polymers.
Microbiome-Friendly Certification for Scalp and Vaginal Care
Primient Covation LLC, headquartered in Loudon, Tennessee, has announced that its Zemea propanediol has been awarded Microbiome-Friendly certification per MyMicrobiome standards 19.20 (scalp) and 21.10 (vaginal).
The 100% bio-based 1,3-propanediol is derived from regeneratively grown dent corn in the U.S. Midwest and offers a sustainable alternative to petroleum-based products, while supporting microbiome balance in sensitive areas.
MyMicrobiome, an independent global certification body, confirmed that Zemea propanediol meets rigorous standards for supporting bacterial diversity and maintaining the natural, healthy balance of the scalp and vaginal microbiomes.
The ingredient achieved scores of 1.1 and 1.2 on the MyMicrobiome Standard scale, indicating minimal to no impact on microbial health. This milestone follows its previous certifications for sebaceous (standard 18.10) and dry skin, reinforcing Zemea propanediol’s compatibility and performance across various skin types.
"Microbiome health is increasingly important for consumers and manufacturers," said Sean L. Gahan, global technical service manager at Primient Covation. "Our certifications give formulators confidence in using Zemea propanediol in hair care and female hygiene products without compromising microbiome integrity."
Zemea propanediol is used in beauty and personal care formulations. It functions as a humectant to hydrate skin, creating an ideal environment for beneficial microbes, and as a co-solvent in preservative systems, reducing the need for harsher preservatives.
