Rheology and Texture Analysis Used Together to Improve Raw Material Choices

By: Alicia Roso and Riva Brinet, SEPPIC

Posted: December 23, 2005, from the June 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Texture and skin feeling of cosmetic formulations are becoming fundamental parameters that strongly influence the consumer’s choice when selecting a suitable cosmetic product. In addition to the biological activity (such as antiaging or soothing), the sensation experienced during use of cosmetics is becoming a key criterion for consumers and consequently for laboratory formulation teams. The sensation is drawn from parameters including consistency of the final product, ease of pick-up, good spreading properties, and the absence of any sticky or greasy sensations. All these factors need to be optimized.

Furthermore, these texture criteria should be stable over time during the entire life of the cosmetic formulation and also reproducible at the production stage. Controlling the texture parameters is very challenging. SEPPIC has developed methodologies to help formulators optimize their product development to enhance texture and skin feeling. Rheology and texture analysis, used in combination, are very helpful for the formulator:

• They give quantified, reliable and objective results on texture parameters.

• They enable comparisons to be made between raw materials in terms of their texture, stability, resistance to shear and temperature, processing and other factors.

• They are able to predict the texture of cosmetic products at early stages of product development and thus minimize development time. • They can predict the behavior of the cosmetic formulation under actual conditions of use and at all stages of its lifetime (manufacture, packaging, storage, transport, use). Rheology and texture analysis study the reaction of the product under shear stress applied by different types of device and movement. For the complete article, click on "Purchase this article."

This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries, but you can purchase the full-text version.