Efficacy/Claims Substantiation
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Quantifying Hair Color Fading
Jan 29, 2015
Around 10-12 years ago, shampoos and conditioners began appearing on the market claiming to be “color safe.” This strongly resonated with consumers. The present article discusses various contributors to the color fade process with a specific emphasis on measurements to quantify and understand color fade.
Hair as a Test Substrate
Nov 12, 2014
Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.
Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 2
Aug 21, 2014
A previous article discussed traditional measurements to assess the properties of hair spray products. However, the properties of polymer films deposited by these products are not constant and can be altered by both formulation means and environmental conditions. This article highlights additional useful measurement techniques for characterizing these film properties.
Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1
May 20, 2014
There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.
Correlating Aging with Skin’s Mechanical and Optical Properties
May 1, 2014
The aim of this study was to monitor the evolution of biomechanical and optical properties of the skin with aging. Different biophysical parameters were measured, including skin: elasticity and firmness, color, brightness, fluorescence emission, sebum content, hydration and pH. A significant evolution of the evaluated parameters with aging was observed.
‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims
Jan 24, 2014
Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.
Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage
Jan 12, 2014
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Anti-wrinkle Claims Substantiation
Nov 1, 2013
Personal care is now dominated by want rather than need, and one facet at the crux of this trend is the taboo word of the century: wrinkles. As with the majority of cosmetic products and claims in the 21st century, product development teams aim to differentiate their products from competitors in one way or another, to create a successful brand and generate profit.
Image Processing and Analysis to Evaluate the Effects of Porous Polyamide Microspheres in Cosmetics
Sep 1, 2013
Described here is an image processing system that compensates for changes in illumination and volunteer position, and two algorithms to quantify skin texture and wrinkles. These methods evaluate skin parameters from a single image without contacting skin. Their abilities are demonstrated here in evaluations of the benefits of porous polyamide ultra-fine powders on skin texture and gloss.
Measuring Hair Strength, Part I: Stress-Strain Curves
Aug 1, 2013
This article is the first in a series that will address the approaches of measuring the “strength” of hair and quantifying the manner by which this property may be altered. Specifically, it will begin with the generation of stress-strain curves through the use of constant rate extension experiments.
Testing Moisturizing Claims for Skin
Jun 1, 2013
Although this author cannot deny that moisturization capabilities can provide relief for those who suffer from flaky, itching or irritated and dry skin, it would be careless not to acknowledge the marketing-based beguilement within this moisturization sector.
Fischer-Tropsch vs. Mineral Products for Moisturization
Jun 1, 2013
Differing amounts of Fischer-Tropsch (FT) wax were used in petroleum jelly and final cosmetic emulsions to evaluate moisturizing effects in skin. FT wax was shown to perform as well or better than traditional mineral-derived products.