Efficacy/Claims Substantiation
‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims
Jan 24, 2014
Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.
Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products
Jan 13, 2014
The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.
Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage
Jan 12, 2014
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Anti-wrinkle Claims Substantiation
Nov 1, 2013
Personal care is now dominated by want rather than need, and one facet at the crux of this trend is the taboo word of the century: wrinkles. As with the majority of cosmetic products and claims in the 21st century, product development teams aim to differentiate their products from competitors in one way or another, to create a successful brand and generate profit.
Image Processing and Analysis to Evaluate the Effects of Porous Polyamide Microspheres in Cosmetics
Sep 1, 2013
Described here is an image processing system that compensates for changes in illumination and volunteer position, and two algorithms to quantify skin texture and wrinkles. These methods evaluate skin parameters from a single image without contacting skin. Their abilities are demonstrated here in evaluations of the benefits of porous polyamide ultra-fine powders on skin texture and gloss.
Measuring Hair Strength, Part I: Stress-Strain Curves
Aug 1, 2013
This article is the first in a series that will address the approaches of measuring the “strength” of hair and quantifying the manner by which this property may be altered. Specifically, it will begin with the generation of stress-strain curves through the use of constant rate extension experiments.
Testing Moisturizing Claims for Skin
Jun 1, 2013
Although this author cannot deny that moisturization capabilities can provide relief for those who suffer from flaky, itching or irritated and dry skin, it would be careless not to acknowledge the marketing-based beguilement within this moisturization sector.
Fischer-Tropsch vs. Mineral Products for Moisturization
Jun 1, 2013
Differing amounts of Fischer-Tropsch (FT) wax were used in petroleum jelly and final cosmetic emulsions to evaluate moisturizing effects in skin. FT wax was shown to perform as well or better than traditional mineral-derived products.