Most Recent in Testing

Octocrylene Concerns Flag Industry's Attention

Apr 23, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

The industry reacts to a new study published in Contact Dermatitis reviews reports of the UV absorber octocrylene for its potential to cause photo contact allergy.

Sandblasting to Improve the Reproducibility of In vitro Sunscreen Evaluation

Mar 20, 2014Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen Labs, Creil, France

SPF test results from substrates treated using a traditional sandblasting technique are compared with those from substrates treated using a new process. Based on the topographic control of 10 batches and 34 sunscreen evaluations, the authors concluded the new process had better topographic reproducibility, consequently improving the SPF repeatability and reproducibility in vitro.

Researchers Dig Deeper Into Relationship Between Bacteria and Atopic Dermatitis

Mar 4, 2014

Researchers from the Drexel University College of Medicine have established a clearer relationship between Staphylococci bacteria and the conditions atopic dermatitis (AD) and eczema.

Collagens I and III, and Elastin Activation for Anti-aging

Feb 24, 2014D. Auriol and G. Redziniak Libragen; and H. Chajra, K. Schweikert and F. Lefevre, Induchem

As an alternative to semi-invasive facial rejuvenation techniques, the authors developed an active ingredient to reactivate senescent fibroblasts by stimulating metabolic pathways for collagens I and III, and elastin. The biological activity of the resulting ingredient is investigated here using in vitro models, ex vivo explants and human volunteers.

Measuring the Water Content of Hair

Feb 21, 2014Trefor A Evans, T.A Evans LLC

Consumers have demonstrated a clear desire for hair that isn’t “dried out” while also demonstrating a clear distaste for the effects of high humidity on hair. To find the balance in creating products, it is necessary to have an accurate means of measuring hair’s water content. This article describes equipment used to perform this task while highlighting experimental variables that can produce suspect results and lead to incorrect conclusions.

‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims

Jan 24, 2014Chris McLeod, HPCI Media

Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.

State of São Paulo in Brazil Bans Cosmetic Testing on Animals

Jan 24, 2014

This ban in the Brazilian state follows a ban from India, Israel and the European Union, as well as debate and potential regulation changes in countries like China.

The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*

Jan 13, 2014Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California School of Medicine; and Nicolas Atrux-Tallau, PhD, ESPCI ParisTech

Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound. Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).

Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

Jan 13, 2014Qing Huang, Zhen-Wu Mei, Koji Takata and Jianzhong Yang, Beauty & Health Innovation Co., Ltd.

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

Jan 12, 2014Trefor Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

Liverpool Student Develops Alternative to Draize for Testing Mascara Irritation

Jan 8, 2014

Researchers at the University of Liverpool have developed a testing method alternative to the Draize test for mascara eye irritation using protozoa rather than animals. In addition to the new method not using rabbits, it was found to be cheaper and more reliable.

ICCVAM Requests Info on Skin Sensitization Testing

Nov 20, 2013

The Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) has requested the submission of new science or information on alternative test methods or testing strategies for skin sensitization, as part of a plan of action to advance this area.

Researcher Develops Hydroperoxide Detection Method for Fragrance Allergens

Nov 13, 2013

Research from the University of Gothenburg has led to a potential method for identifying allergenic fragrance compounds in consumer products by exposing them to air.

Anti-wrinkle Claims Substantiation

Nov 1, 2013Chris McLeod, HPCI media

Personal care is now dominated by want rather than need, and one facet at the crux of this trend is the taboo word of the century: wrinkles. As with the majority of cosmetic products and claims in the 21st century, product development teams aim to differentiate their products from competitors in one way or another, to create a successful brand and generate profit.

Influence of Pressure During Spreading on UV Transmission Results

Nov 1, 2013Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen Labs

This work evaluates the impact of applied pressure during sample spreading on the in vitro measurement of UV transmission. The authors work in a range of pressures between 50–200 g and demonstrate that pressure control is a key parameter that should be strictly controlled to ensure the reliability of test results.

C + K Introduces Tewameter with Three Probes for Better Efficiency

Oct 23, 2013

Courage + Khazaka has upgraded its well-known TEWL and barrier function measurement device, the Tewameter, with three probe heads for better efficiency.

In Vitro UV Testing—Robot vs. Human Spreading for Repeatable, Reproducible Results

Oct 1, 2013Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen Labs

Repeatability and reproducibility are crucial to validate any test method. In order to master these criteria, the authors developed an automated spreading device and compared it with human spreading. Application of the device in eight laboratories and using 36 sunscreens revealed great improvements via automated spreading, ensuring good intra- and inter-laboratory variability.

Image Processing and Analysis to Evaluate the Effects of Porous Polyamide Microspheres in Cosmetics

Sep 1, 2013Helena Cheminet, PhD, Arkema; Pierre Seroul, Newtone Technologies; and Vincenzo Nobile, Farcoderm

Described here is an image processing system that compensates for changes in illumination and volunteer position, and two algorithms to quantify skin texture and wrinkles. These methods evaluate skin parameters from a single image without contacting skin. Their abilities are demonstrated here in evaluations of the benefits of porous polyamide ultra-fine powders on skin texture and gloss.

Solar Flair

Sep 1, 2013Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

If like me, you’re just daydreaming of the beach, this collection of articles will enlighten you with its focus on sun protection, SPF testing, damage repair and more.

CeeTox Inches Closer to Validating Non-Animal Skin Allergy Assay

Aug 13, 2013

CeeTox has reported positive results from the recent phase of a PETA-funded validation study performed by the Flemish Institute for Technological Research (VITO)’s Applied BIO & Molecular Systems (ABS) team.

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Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.

C&T Summit

C&T Summit is a new two-day event for cosmetic scientists focused on both theory and application. Coming June 26 & 27, 2014 to University of Pennsylvania. Learn more about the conference and join the mailing list to learn more today.