From Caper to Prickly Pear for Dermatitis, to Dual Phase Mouthwash: Literature Review

Jul 1, 2010 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Charles Fox Associates
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Title: From Caper to Prickly Pear for Dermatitis, to Dual Phase Mouthwash: Literature Review
patentx research literaturex indirect antioxidantsx skin protectionx caper and prickly pear extractsx granulated shampoox dual phase mouthwashx
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Keywords: patent | research literature | indirect antioxidants | skin protection | caper and prickly pear extracts | granulated shampoo | dual phase mouthwash

Abstract: This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including indirect antioxidants for skin protection, caper and prickly pear extracts to address skin conditions, granulated shampoo and a dual phase mouthwash, among others.

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C Fox, Technically speaking—From caper to prickly pear for dermatitis, to dual phase mouthwash: Literature review, Cosm & Toil 125(7) 20-26

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This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including indirect antioxidants for skin protection, caper and prickly pear extracts to address skin conditions, granulated shampoo and a dual phase mouthwash, among others.

Skin and Skin Care

Polysiloxane emulsifiers: Clariant International Ltd. discloses cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, preferably emulsions, utilizing one or more modified polysiloxanes with at least one carbamate group as the emulsifiers.

Vernonia to improve skin: Bayer Consumer Care describes the use of Vernonia extract to improve skin. The described invention incorporates a Vernonia plant extract from Madagascar into cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and food supplements to improve the skin by strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction and/or activating fibroblast synthesis and extracellular matrix compounds.

Thus, dried leaves of Vernonia appendiculata were extracted using heptane and percolated with ethanol. The fats were then removed by liquid-liquid extraction, also using heptane. After concentration into the aqueous phase, glycerin was added to adjust the solution to 10% extract in a water-glycerin blend. The final product resulted in a liquid containing > 5% of chlorogenic and isochlorogenic acids. The end Vernonia extract obtained was formulated at 1% into an antiaging cream.

Topical, injectable hyaluronan and heparin: Innoderm has patented topical and injectable cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing a combination of cross-linked or non-cross-linked hyaluronan and heparin and/or one or more heparinoid derivatives. These compositions were employed to prolong the lifespan of the hyaluronan present in the skin, which is either endogenous or exogenous, cross-linked or non-cross-linked, in order to improve its antiaging and moisturizing actions and to fill in wrinkles.

Antioxidant protection and phase 2 enzyme inducers: Western Holdings LLC discloses skin protectant compositions containing antioxidants and indirect antioxidants—i.e., phase 2 enzyme inducers—such as one to protect skin against the damage caused by UV radiation. Specifically disclosed is a broccoli extract in combination with a composition including Hibiscus flower extract, Ferula assa foetida root extract, pear fruit extract and green tea leaf extract, which exhibits a synergistic effect and protects against the adverse effects of UV radiation. The composition further includes vitamins C and E and is suggested for cosmetics, sunscreen products, moisturizers, toners and other skin care.

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In Memory: Charles Fox

Charles Fox

Charles “Charlie” Fox, industry veteran, mentor and Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) magazine columnist, passed away on Saturday, April 24, 2010, at the age of 90. Fox was an independent consultant to the cosmetics and personal care industry. Prior to that, he served as director of product development for the personal products division of Warner-Lambert Company. He is a past recipient of the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers Award and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Medal Award. Fox also served as president of the SCC.

Fox mentored many in the cosmetics industry. “Charlie was a mentor, an educator and a friend to many of us in the SCC and the cosmetic industry at large,” wrote Paul Thau of PaCar Tech. “He made significant contributions in many areas. I was fortunate to have known and learned from him. He shared his knowledge, wisdom and kindness with many of us.” 

“[This is] another great loss to all in the cosmetic industry (and beyond),” added Stanley Milstein of the US Food and Drug Administration. “Many of us who were not among his ‘inner circle’ of friends and colleagues nonetheless learned of his many encyclopedic contributions to cosmetic science—either through coursework during our degree programs, literature, or his monthly C&T magazine columns (which, amazingly, continued up until the time of his passing).”

Fox once told Rachel Grabenhofer, senior editor of C&T magazine, “I will write for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine until the day I die,” a promise he kept. Grabenhofer added, “He also knew how to teach an editor a thing or two about chemistry. I’ll miss those lessons.”

Following is Fox’s final “Technically Speaking” column, which he said is “from Charlie, in heaven.” The staff at C&T magazine is eternally grateful for Fox’s contribution to the publication and will miss his wit and passion.

Fox is survived by his son, Martin (Robin); daughters Ellen and Diane Fox-Kossoff; sisters Anne Frankfort and Sheila Fuchs; and grandsons Gregory and Harrison.

Biography: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Charles Fox

The belated Charles Fox was an independent consultant to the cosmetics and personal care industry. Formerly the director of product development for the personal products division of Warner-Lambert Company, he was also a past recipient of the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers Award and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Medal Award. He also served as president of the SCC.

Formula 1. Moisturizing night cream1

Carbamate-containing polysiloxane (preparation given) 2.00% w/w
Mineral oil 17.00
Hydrogenated castor oil 0.40
Microcrystalline wax 0.60
Sodium chloride 0.50
Urea 10.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) piroctone olamine (Nipaguard POM, Clariant) 0.80
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 2. Hair softener7

Cetostearyl alcohol 9.00% w/w
Octyldodecanol 3.00
Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.00
Polyoxyethylene sorbitol tetraoleate (Nikkol GO-4V, Nikko) 2.00
Polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (Nikkol BS-2, Nikko) 4.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 3. Shampoo8

Sodium laureth sulfate 11.20% w/w
Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.80
Oxidized hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.40
Citric acid qs to pH 5.6
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 4. Hair dye9

Amine compatible silicone adhesive (Bio PSA 7-4405, Dow Corning) 20.00% w/w
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (DC 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning) 10.00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Wacker Belsil PMS MK Powder, Wacker-Chemie) 3.00
Colored earth 8.00
Isododecane qs to 100.00

Formula 5. Lip gloss11

Dimethyl silylate 2.00% w/w
CI 77491 (and) CI 77492 0.26
CI 77499 0.04
CI 15850 0.23
CI 77891 0.15
Prunus dulcis 24.00
Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate 10.00
Helianthus annuus seed wax 5.00
Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 35.00
Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer 10.00
Octyldodecanol qs to 100.00

Formula 6. Film-forming lip preparation12

Polyethylene glycol 1.00% w/w
Methylparaben 0.20
Polyvinyl alcohol 9.50
Glycerin 5.00
Xanthane polysaccharides 1.00
Dimethyl isosorbide 1.50
Ethoxylated polydimethylsiloxane 2.00
Hydrogenated isoparaffin 1.00
Ethanol 8.00
Trisodium citrate dihydrate 0.02
Vinyl acetate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 2.67
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 7. O/W sunscreen emulsion13

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00% w/w
Stearyl alcohol 0.50
Myristyl myristate 1.00
Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10
Xanthan gum 0.40
Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 5.00
Dicaprylcaprate 2.00
1,2-Hexanediol 0.20
Glycerin 7.50
Trisodium citrate dihydrate 0.02
Ethyl alcohol 2.00
Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) dimethicone/methicone copolymer (particle size 15 nm) 3.00
Titanium dioxide (and) dimethicone/methicone copolymer (particle size 80 nm) 2.00
Ethylhexyltriazine 2.50
2-(4’-Diethylamino-2’-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester 2.00
Ethylhexylsalicylate 2.00
Vitamin E acetate 0.20
Disodium EDTA 0.10
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Preservative qs
NaOH qs
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 8. Dual-phase mouthwash14

Mineral oil 13.00% w/w
Water (aqua) 60.00
Glycerin 9.00
Propylene glycol 9.00
Sorbitol 5.00
Sodium pyrophosphate 0.50
Potassium pyrophosphate 1.40
Maleic anhydride vinyl methyl ether copolymer 0.30
Sodium fluoride 0.05
Flavor and colors 1.745
Nonionic surfactant 0.005
  100.00

Formula 9. Pressurized composition17

Water (aqua) 96.30% w/w
Potassium phosphate, 50% 1.00
Ethoxylated (60) hydrogenated castor oil, 50% 0.50
C6-17 secondary alcohol 0.30
3-6 mol Ethoxylate didecyldimethyl ammonium chloride, 50% 0.10
Permethrin 0.50
Propylene glycol 0.40
Polyhexamethylene biguanide 0.20
Nitrogen 0.70
  100.00

Formula 10. W/O Foundation18

Silicone dendrimer acrylic copolymer 5.00% w/w
Dimethylpolysiloxane polyoxyethylene copolymer 0.50
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 10.00
Dimethylpolysiloxanes 16.00
2-Ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate 3.00
Glycerin 2.00
Ethanol 7.00
Magnesium sulfate 0.50
Silicone-treated zinc oxide (and) titanium oxide (and) iron oxide (and) mica 12.80
Silsesquioxane 2.50
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

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