in-cosmetics 2012: Genomics, Holistic Approaches and Old Favorites With a Twist

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: April 25, 2012

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Located front and center of the show floor, DSM Nutritional Products presented its new Tilamar Fix A140 hair styling hold product with fanfare as a professional hair dresser performed hair styling feats using the company’s product on a raised stage. According to the company, hairspray users worldwide seek fast-drying products that maintain style all day long without being sticky on hair and hands. In addition, Ashland, previously ISP, again featured its BiotHAIRapy line of biofunctional extracts to target the outer and inner root sheath of the hair follicle to strengthen hair and make it healthier.

Furthermore, Provital Group offered its Keramare active ingredient derived from brown algae that, when injected into the hair matrix, utilizes a natural three-dimensional delivery system to release the active ingredient, leaving shine on even damaged hair. Also, Croda presented its Keramimic 2.0, a new generation of biomimetic keratin developed using cutting edge proteomics to offer intelligent, targeted repair for the most damaged areas of hair. In relation, its Keramimic 2.0 KeraDyn HH conditioning agent was also presented, innovatively designed to deliver healthy hair dynamics to damaged hair by enhancing fiber alignment and reducing friction between hair strands for the freedom of movement that healthy hair enjoys.

In Living Color

It seems that new developments in color cosmetics come along only once in a while. This may be in part due to the fact that only a limited number of pigments are approved for cosmetic use, especially in the United States. However, one notable development in this area, among others, was DKSH’s Hifeset product, a new class of layered pearl pigments. Onto a flat, smooth synthetic mica, iron oxide is coated and then surrounded by titanium dioxide. This provides both higher chroma and brightness.

In relation, Edwin Faulkner’s It’s a Colorful World book (published by Allured Business Media, publisher of Cosmetics & Toiletries) was also featured at the event. In this book, Faulkner, with 40-years of experience working with color, offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Specific pigments groups are broken down with respect to chemical properties, regulatory concerns, applicability to various product developments, esthetic quality, and the economics of selecting colors for use in decorative cosmetics. For more information, view the abstract.

Trends Development

Beyond marketing trends presentations featured at the event and those clearly identified in the launches noted above, a novel approach to identifying and developing trends for manufacturers was undertaken by Seppic. As Arnita Wofford of Seppic eloquently explained, “Inspired by 2013–2014 fashion, décor and industrial trends, Seppic decided to collaborate with French forecasting agency Carlin International to translate these trends for personal care.” In a brainstorming session, the company’s international marketing, sales and research teams crafted a “lookbook” of cosmetic formulations corresponding to different market segments using these trends that attract and captivate formulators, marketers and consumers alike. “The idea was not to follow a trend to meet a need, but to anticipate the future needs of the client,” Wofford explained.