In-Cosmetics Highlights Eco-responsible Cosmetics

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: April 20, 2011

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Dow Personal Care featured three new technologies, including Ecosmooth Silk (INCI: Ethylene/Octene Copolymer (and) Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer) a new conditioning polymer, which Lionel Genix, global marketing director, described as a "new tool in the formulator's toolbox" because it is designed to improve wet and dry combing from a non-cationic platform. "The polymer works by combining hydrophobicity with the hair shaft and replacing fatty acids in the hair. It's a completely new chemistry." Genix noted that the product can be used to replace silicone in a 1:1 ratio. In addition, the company launched a polymer for aerosols that delivers shine and hold simultaneously, as well as polymers that deliver new levels of conditioning benefits. 

Azelis also debuted a new formulating concept from Evonik at the show—a powder to cream formulation. This concept was developed through a collaboration between the two companies and involves oil and water phases that are both dry. To create the formulation, the water is absorbed in silica and combined with an oil phase of light liquid paraffin. According to the company, the formulation concept has many applications and it has a true powder feel. Azelis had developed nearly 40 formulations with the concept, such as a powder-to-cream blush, a leave-in hair powder and a sun cream.

ISP and Takasago announced an agreement to develop oral care innovations. Based on ISP’s complex coacervation encapsulation technology and Takasago’s flavors, the partnership will help produce new flavor and sensory approaches to elevate consumers’ experience in products such as toothpastes, mouthwashes and whiteners. Under the agreement, the companies will aim to commercialize new products using ISP’s encapsulation technology to deliver sensory experience based on Takasago’s flavors. The alliance enables the partners to more quickly commercialize encapsulated flavors with unique sensory benefits. "Our encapsulation technology combined with Takasago’s unique flavors will produce exciting innovations for this segment of personal care,” said Jim Mish, senior vice president/general manager, ISP Personal Care. “These sensory benefits give oral care marketers many possibilities for new products, and our joint formulation and technical service capabilities will vigorously support their efforts.” The companies expect the alliance to produce novel sensory solutions in the near future. Development times will also depend on customer needs.

DSM was also present at In-Cosmetics to discuss Regu-Fade (INCI: Resveratrol), a pure resveratrol designed to brighten and even skin tone. According to the company, the brightening active, although specifically of interest in Asian markets, is also useful in Western skin care. The active is said to take a multiple-step approach to skin lightening by down-regulating several genes that control skin pigmentation. It is also said to brighten the skin in just two weeks, which benefits consumers looking for fast results. The company also debuted its new identity at the event; as a result of its Pentapharm acquisition, the company overhauled its logo and added the tagline “Bright Science. Brighter Living.” with a colorful logo and design to match.

Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine unveiled its new online educational program, the Complete Cosmetic Chemist, at In-Cosmetics 2011. Perry Romanowski, expert formulator and the program's director, was present at the magazine's booth to explain the program to attendees. Many were excited about the 12-video series, which allows students to work at their own pace in subjects such as shampoo and nail products.